C/C plates, LCA's and diff fluid swap...
#1
C/C plates, LCA's and diff fluid swap...
hey guys, I had my car taken in to be checked over again and this time they took me in the shop with them to discuss and show me what was wrong and why. It turns out I need C/C plates because my factory strut towers are shot and theres a little play, The lower control arms are in bad shape and my diff was almost empty.. Also they said I was missing the rear caliper bracket bushings, I've looked all over and haven't been able to find these?
So far I'm just in the process of changing the diff fluid which desperately needed to be changed. I pulled the cover drained it cleaned the surface and used black high temp silacone but I haven't gotten the diff fluid yet. I was told to go with 75w 90 and I was thinking mobile 1 but I don't know if I need friction modifier? Also I looked a while for the fill bolt but I haven't been able to find it yet. I was told it was towards the front by the pinion seal on the driver side, is this right? I did look and wasn't able to see anything yet.
As for the cc plates I was thinking j&m's. does anyone know if these are ok?
I was also looking at their lower control arms. I was looking at the granatalli lca's but I don't really need the adjustable ones. its just my daily driver and might see the track a couple times a year. as much as 2 at the most. or would it be worth it to spend the $40 for the adjustable granatallis?
my car is a 95 svt cobra
thanks in advance and I know the post is really long it just all came as the to do list today now pushing my transmission rebuild even further away...
So far I'm just in the process of changing the diff fluid which desperately needed to be changed. I pulled the cover drained it cleaned the surface and used black high temp silacone but I haven't gotten the diff fluid yet. I was told to go with 75w 90 and I was thinking mobile 1 but I don't know if I need friction modifier? Also I looked a while for the fill bolt but I haven't been able to find it yet. I was told it was towards the front by the pinion seal on the driver side, is this right? I did look and wasn't able to see anything yet.
As for the cc plates I was thinking j&m's. does anyone know if these are ok?
I was also looking at their lower control arms. I was looking at the granatalli lca's but I don't really need the adjustable ones. its just my daily driver and might see the track a couple times a year. as much as 2 at the most. or would it be worth it to spend the $40 for the adjustable granatallis?
my car is a 95 svt cobra
thanks in advance and I know the post is really long it just all came as the to do list today now pushing my transmission rebuild even further away...
Last edited by pk222; 05-13-2009 at 01:56 AM.
#2
what is wrong w the tranny?
I think I was reading that royal purple is a good fluid. Do they make a diff fluid? may want to check them out. I have this wierd noise in my tranny even aftr a rebuild and I dont know whats up w that. Its a clanking sound as if gears are knocking. The tranny has just been rebuilt due to this noise, but anyways, it runs good . I DID run nitrous on the car for a bit.
Anyhow, good luck w it. The 95 cobra is a 5.0 right?
I think I was reading that royal purple is a good fluid. Do they make a diff fluid? may want to check them out. I have this wierd noise in my tranny even aftr a rebuild and I dont know whats up w that. Its a clanking sound as if gears are knocking. The tranny has just been rebuilt due to this noise, but anyways, it runs good . I DID run nitrous on the car for a bit.
Anyhow, good luck w it. The 95 cobra is a 5.0 right?
#3
the tranney needs to be rebuilt bad, the bearings are shot and the 4th gear synchro is gone. It whines first through 3rd and then even when double clutching it grinds usually from 3rd to 4th and wont go from 5th to 4th. but as the tranneys still somewhat working so I have to hold off on that...
I know royal purple is good but I didn't think it was necessary, and yes they do make a diff fluid, that is twice the amount of even mobile 1. I was asking weight and quantity
thanks and ya its the 5.0 svt cobra not the cobra r with the 5.8
I know royal purple is good but I didn't think it was necessary, and yes they do make a diff fluid, that is twice the amount of even mobile 1. I was asking weight and quantity
thanks and ya its the 5.0 svt cobra not the cobra r with the 5.8
#4
I'm running 2 bottles of Lucas 80w-90 gear oil in my differential. They say you don't need to use friction modifier due to them already adding it to their formula, but I added about half a tube for some insurance.
Yes you need friction modifier unless you have a locker, which you don't, or a spool, which you don't.
You prob won't use the whole second bottle of fluid, are you using a fluid gun? I pumped in one bottle, then pumped in about 1/5 of the second bottle. I mixed a bit of my friction modifier with the remaining lucas oil in its bottle and pumped in almost all of that second bottle. You will be done when you can stick your finger in the fill plug and the level should be just below it.
I don't know what to tell you about your strut towers, but if they have sagged/changed a bit to due excessive abuse on the car. Then you may need those C/C plates. If that was the case a strut tower brace would be wise.
Yes you need friction modifier unless you have a locker, which you don't, or a spool, which you don't.
You prob won't use the whole second bottle of fluid, are you using a fluid gun? I pumped in one bottle, then pumped in about 1/5 of the second bottle. I mixed a bit of my friction modifier with the remaining lucas oil in its bottle and pumped in almost all of that second bottle. You will be done when you can stick your finger in the fill plug and the level should be just below it.
I don't know what to tell you about your strut towers, but if they have sagged/changed a bit to due excessive abuse on the car. Then you may need those C/C plates. If that was the case a strut tower brace would be wise.
#5
ok I'll try the 2 bottles of lucus and try to find friction modifier.
I was going to try to use the actual bottle and get a piece of fuel hose from the tip into the diff but I can't even find the fill bolt but I was told its on the front of the pumpkin by the pinion on the driver side, but I couldn't feel or see anything.
I know I need the cc plates, the play in it is so bad I thought my wheel bearing was bad and the shop told me it is because I have lowering springs which they said is a 2.5 in lowering kit all around. also considering its lowered without cc plates the alignment cannot be completely zeroed.
I was going to try to use the actual bottle and get a piece of fuel hose from the tip into the diff but I can't even find the fill bolt but I was told its on the front of the pumpkin by the pinion on the driver side, but I couldn't feel or see anything.
I know I need the cc plates, the play in it is so bad I thought my wheel bearing was bad and the shop told me it is because I have lowering springs which they said is a 2.5 in lowering kit all around. also considering its lowered without cc plates the alignment cannot be completely zeroed.
#6
These car's require C/C plates sometimes with stock suspension parts if your springs are getting somewhat old... with ANY suspension mods it's almost mandatory do get C/C plates.
The first mods I did was cc plates then I started doing parts that improve the handling of the car.
Here is a pic of the fill plug in question. It's right behind the yellow DOT tag on the braided line.
[img]
[/img]
Like I said, Lucas includes friction modifier in their formula, so don't go adding a whole bottle of friction modifier. You probably don't even have to add any, but like I said I added about half of a tube, where the requirement for oil with no modifier is a full tube.
The first mods I did was cc plates then I started doing parts that improve the handling of the car.
Here is a pic of the fill plug in question. It's right behind the yellow DOT tag on the braided line.
[img]
[/img]
Like I said, Lucas includes friction modifier in their formula, so don't go adding a whole bottle of friction modifier. You probably don't even have to add any, but like I said I added about half of a tube, where the requirement for oil with no modifier is a full tube.
#7
thanks for the pic a lot for the pic I've been looking for the fill bolt for awhile with no luck.
I knew I needed cc plates for correct alignment but I didn't know that my shock towers were actually bad
I knew I needed cc plates for correct alignment but I didn't know that my shock towers were actually bad
Last edited by pk222; 05-13-2009 at 05:00 PM.
#10
Unless your front fenders aren't lining up with your doors and hood anymore, your shock towers are probably fine. The need for CC plates is because of your aftermarket springs. But like I said a strut tower brace will definately help reduce front chassis flex. You just have to drill a few holes to install it, but IMO worth it big time.