jiminEcricket

o.k . , I have an 87 GT with a non working fuel guage. i am NOT getting power to the sending unit (which is relatively new) checking the wiring diagram from alldata , i find i have power going to the gauge feed and the anti slosh module. but i have no voltage coming from the module going out to the sender. the wiring is good (checked with multimeter on continuity function from conn. at tank to gauge cluster conn.) - i removed the gauge and it seems to be o.k. I got a salvage yard slosh module and it still does not work. bought a used WHOLE cluster from ebay- STILL does not work!!!!!! it still seems to be the slosh module as i get voltage in but not out. my ? is do these modules go out a lot? even a used one is still at least 20 years old (if factory installed) and susceptible to being bad. i did notice that the 3 i now have have slight differences between them , though they could possibly interchange? my local ford dealer says they cannot get this part. I may have to go to an electronic store and see if i can have check EVERY diode and capacitor on this chip. if anyone can still get this new . i will gladly send you the $ to purchase and ship it to me. I just hate not having things working on my cars. especially a fuel gauge

mjr46

the sending unit in tank does not have voltage to it nor does it generate such....it is a variable resistor, whose resistance reading is picked up through the module to the gauge

jiminEcricket

i appreciate any help that i can get, but you are incorrect in that the yellow/white wire coming from the slosh module to the sending unit SHOULD have voltage going to the sender ( all cars do) you are right , the sender is a variable resistor, but it variates the ground to use more or less voltage to get through it. so this voltage must come from somewhere, in my case the yellow/white wire. I am in no means trying to bust your chops, but if a newbie say this post they would believe something (and possibly spread it) that is not true

mjr46

not all cars use the same methood, so don't assume all are the same, trust me I have a few example that'd suprise you........anyway, I'm not at my data base with all info I will look up the wiring diagram specific to your car and get back with you

j-wigg

what is your gauge reading?(empty/full). if your ground the yellow/white wire, what does the gauge do? from my understanding, it should jump to full or empty. not sure exactly but one or the other. cam anyone confirm?

89blue5.0

I had a faulty fuel gauge on my '89. The sending unit was replaced and the gauge always read half full. When I clipped the yellow wire coming from the sending unit my gauge went to reading full. I swear that my problem had something to do with the anti-slosh module as I have heard that those things are crap. If you do a search on here about faulty fuel gauges you will notice that it is a common problem. I decided to bypass the whole factory set up. I mounted an Auto Meter fuel gauge in the car and ran a new wire back to the sending unit. Works like a charm.

jiminEcricket

my gauge reads empty all the time. yes the gauge would go to full empty (or full) if you ground the y/w wire because you are removing the resistance in the circuit (the sending unit) but you must first have voltage at this wire which i do not have. o.k. lets get back to my main question as diagnosis is not what i really need,i got that part pretty much figured out. what i do need to know is . do these slosh modules go out a lot? and where can i get a new one? thanks for any info

mjr46

it doesn't matter whether they go out alot or not, knowing such won't solve your issue but if it makes you feel any better I HAVE only ever had to replace 1 on the many I have worked on, if you have power at c251 at the cluster and no power coming out than the fault is either the gauge or the module but that's a big assumption on my part ...why you ask?? you said you had ALL DATA....so do I, use it everyday, I fail to believe you have properly gone through all the factory pinpoint tests A-E on this or you would have found the issue, testing for power in and out is just the first step in a series of tests , there is even a bypass test for the module to narrow it down to such, you can't assume or omit steps in troubleshooting or you will be losts as you are now, now if you don't have the pinpoint tests, later tonight I'll be home and I have them printed out and I can give you a step to perform and walk you through the process but there are way to many branches in the troubleshooting of this to make an assumption right now...just let me know what you wanna do

jiminEcricket

o.k. i give up (i'm hard headed) (and going broke) . mjr what do you suggest? i do have alldata at work, but i guess as it can be purchased in different options/configurations our version doesn't tell me much at all about 87' anything ( no pinpoint tests) some suggest putting in an aftermarket gauge , but i prefer everything to wok stock as it should. are there any other power feeds for the gauge? i ask this because my car is actually an 85 that i transfered all of the harness,dash,etc from an 87 GT donor car. the fuel gauge may not have worked in that vehicle due to prior owner rigging. any help is appreciated. i need this fixed

j-wigg

i like the idea of going with an aftermarket gauge as 895.0blue said