Canary94GT

I just did a self-test and pulled the code 332: "EGR valve opening not detected." I have read around a bit, and have found that can mean any of the DPFE sensor, EGR valve itself, vacuum lines, or EVR is bad. Funny thing is, almost every thread I found with this code was 94 or 95 Mustangs.

The car seems to idle fine... but I haven't owned it long enough (1 year) to tell if the idle is different than it should be. However, I have quite a bit of pinging for at least 9 months. I read that a malfunctioning EGR could cause that. I even took it to have a good, expensive maintenance job to *fix the pinging* and they said nothing about the EGR valve or any CEL codes. The pinging continued as normal after that.

I looked around a bit. The EGR valve looks like it has pretty good surface rust on the pipe down that connects to the hose on the header. I was going to take it off until I found I could not budge the rusted on bolt that connects it to the header hose.

Vacuum hoses - I am not quite sure what to check here. I see one coming from the top of the EGR, but that is it. Another one appears to be connected to another part (didn't look close enough to see what the part was, but it wasn't the EGR).
They are run through plastic tubing, so how do I check if they are damaged? Also, they run right into the passenger side fenderwell after passing by the alternator. I read that is where the EVR is located, how easy is it to get in there?

People also say to check with a vacuum pump if the EGR will move up and down, but I don't have one :\

Any help, tips, or ideas?

Joel5.0

Start engine, disconnect vacuum line from EGR valve, attach a vacuum hose extension to the EGR port, and apply some vacuum by sucking on the vacuum hose..... if the engine stumbles/stalls.... EGR valve is not the problem. Need to check the vacuum supply line to the EVR and line from the EVR to the valve. To access them, you need to remove the fender splash cover to gain access to the lines/components (LH side of the diagram below). LUK

mjr46

there is no dpfe sensor on them, that came on later model fords, anyway, you need to test the operation of the evr, vaccum to it, operation of valve = simple vaccum pump will suffice..ect ect...

Canary94GT

Joel, I just tested the vacuum thing. I don't have any extra vacuum hose so I used this exercise tubing I had that fit ok, but I held it tight to the EGR just in case. I tried sucking on it and I did not notice a change in the engine idle. Before I sucked on it, I heard an air-flowing noise (like the EGR is pulling air in through the tube?) and when I put my mouth on it, the noise went away and that's the only sound that changed.

I also could not see the red part (soft, rubbery like) inside the EGR valve move at all, if it is supposed to and that is relevant.

Am I able to create enough of a vacuum with just my mouth?

Oh boy, this post is full of "that's what she said" items.

mjr46

if you are using your mouth to apply vaccum , your gonna have to suck kinda hard and it'll take more than one breath to open it fully unless you can suck on it hard and quick..............dang I know someone is gonna take what I posted for a run....lol

Canary94GT

Hmm, I didn't really think of taking a breath, plugging it, taking another breath, etc... Thing is I don't have a vacuum pump, which if I recall correctly, runs usually $40-$100... I mean it gets to the point where I should just buy a new EGR valve lol

mjr46

IF YOU PULL THE EGR VALVE off when you have done all the proper troubleshooting as joel states, make sure the port is not plugged up with carbon

Joel5.0

You should be able to open the EGR valve using your natural vacuum pump capabilities...... it only takes 2-3" Hg. of vacuum to open the valve... if that is not the case, looks like the valve is stuck, the diaphragm is kaput, or the sensor-valve seal has a leak preventing vacuum to build up.

Canary94GT

Ok, I guess when I get home tonight I'll try again with the vacuum. If it doesn't work, I'll try applying some Kroil (similar to Liquid Wrench I believe) to the bolt holding on the EGR.

Are there any additional tests I can do when (and if) I take the EGR off?

Canary94GT

Ok, I just tested the vacuum again. This time I got the EGR diaphragm to move and the engine almost died. I retested the CEL codes (just to see if I somehow fixed it) and now it is throwing both code 332 and 334.

334 code is "DPFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts."

Does this mean it's the EGR sensor? What should I do next?

edit: Great, now in the KOER test, I'm getting code 116 "ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts." This did not happen when I tested it last night. I got a 1-1-1 pass then.