Need suggestions. 347 stroker, replacing breaking e7's in upcoming month or two..
#11
First off we have no clue what type of pistons were used, so there is no way to compare things to figure out the compression.
Also if this guy has wires arcing that is a bad thing as well, and will cause tons of issues.
Also before you go buy heads, you are going to be hard pressed to find heads with with larger than 64cc chambers. I could be wrong, but that is usually the largest 302 based heads are.
Also if this guy has wires arcing that is a bad thing as well, and will cause tons of issues.
Also before you go buy heads, you are going to be hard pressed to find heads with with larger than 64cc chambers. I could be wrong, but that is usually the largest 302 based heads are.
#13
^^^^^^^^^I was thinking the same thing as I read this thread!!!......I have 58cc 185's vs 64 cc?? e7's.....and my CR is 10.5 to 1, the tuner is incorrect if you have the typical flat top 347 pistons.....anyway I'd check the base timing and total advance after that I'd make sure the egr system is functional, a simple koer should run the test, make sure the system/engine isn't running lean and that the cooling system is functioning properly and you are running premium fuel.....anything that'll elevate cumbustion chamber temps that will flacilitate detonation needs to be looked at
the car makes a (say it real fast to yourself and emphasize wah) "WAH wuh WAH wuh WAH wuh" sound at idle and sounds like its missing a lope, there is also a ticking sound so it makes me think its something with the valve springs or something with it not getting ignited... I just feel like there are so many variances of info that Ive been getting its hard to determine what the problem is.. could it be the wires/valve springs? I can pick both of those up for under like $175 for both..
Last edited by 89cobra5.0; 06-04-2009 at 03:05 PM.
#15
He told me with my heads and this stroker kit its making the comp close to 11:1 with horrible air flow. I wish I knew the type of pistons I have =[ (paperwork doesnt specify dished, etc.. very frustrating), but if/when I get heads to shoot for a bigger cc to lower compression. The tune is perfect I have the dyno sheets to show it although its not letting me upload the pic for some reason, it actually picked up like 60hp/80tq because it was running so bad before I had the engine looked at and then had it tuned and the A/F is flat the entire way up to 5700rpm.. hes checked the timing, he pulled some and then put it back and said run some octane booster I said thats fine. Its been tuned on 91 oct (best I can get) and havent put anything but 91 since I got the car tuned.
the car makes a (say it real fast to yourself and emphasize wah) "WAH wuh WAH wuh WAH wuh" sound at idle and sounds like its missing a lope, there is also a ticking sound so it makes me think its something with the valve springs or something with it not getting ignited... I just feel like there are so many variances of info that Ive been getting its hard to determine what the problem is.. could it be the wires/valve springs? I can pick both of those up for under like $175 for both..
the car makes a (say it real fast to yourself and emphasize wah) "WAH wuh WAH wuh WAH wuh" sound at idle and sounds like its missing a lope, there is also a ticking sound so it makes me think its something with the valve springs or something with it not getting ignited... I just feel like there are so many variances of info that Ive been getting its hard to determine what the problem is.. could it be the wires/valve springs? I can pick both of those up for under like $175 for both..
You cannot determine the cause of the problems in your engine by simply inquiring in the forums, you need to start doing some tests and collecting some data..... cranking compression, engine vacuum test, fuel pressure, check for vacuum leaks, run the DIY KOEO/KOER self tests and verify if there are any A/F control failure codes, read the spark plugs, verify initial timing, etc..... post up the results and we may be able to help. LUK
#16
If you had flattop pistons (no notches), zero deck and 58cc comb chambers it would be ~11.3......... flattop with notches, .005" below deck and 62cc comb chambers it would be ~10.01. Although I agree that the E7's are a waste on a stroker, they may not be the cause for your problem....... otherwise, all 351w trucks would have that condition.
You cannot determine the cause of the problems in your engine by simply inquiring in the forums, you need to start doing some tests and collecting some data..... cranking compression, engine vacuum test, fuel pressure, check for vacuum leaks, run the DIY KOEO/KOER self tests and verify if there are any A/F control failure codes, read the spark plugs, verify initial timing, etc..... post up the results and we may be able to help. LUK
You cannot determine the cause of the problems in your engine by simply inquiring in the forums, you need to start doing some tests and collecting some data..... cranking compression, engine vacuum test, fuel pressure, check for vacuum leaks, run the DIY KOEO/KOER self tests and verify if there are any A/F control failure codes, read the spark plugs, verify initial timing, etc..... post up the results and we may be able to help. LUK
#18
#19
I just saw on the brothersperfomance site, they have a set of ford racing aluminum turbo swirl heads that flow 240 @ .550 for $625 and free shipping I think. Thats a lot better than the pro comps.. Im gonna try to shoot for these heads asap..
I just know once a get a set of aluminum heads a lot of problems I shouldn't be having anyways will go away. I know it'll be a totally different car with even those heads... Plus those springs wont mind my little .498 lift cam, and maybe ill look into 1.7 rockers for about .528 lift.
I just know once a get a set of aluminum heads a lot of problems I shouldn't be having anyways will go away. I know it'll be a totally different car with even those heads... Plus those springs wont mind my little .498 lift cam, and maybe ill look into 1.7 rockers for about .528 lift.
#20
I do now, lol, but I still think Im going to save for TFS - if I can at least get it to run like it should for what it has now, Ill gladly save my pennies and wait for some "do it right the first time" heads. The shop charges $500 for labor so its gonna be a while before I can afford that. Ive just been afraid my motor is going to grenade or something before I can get a chance to fix it! So hopefully all it needs is a new set of plug wires.. thanks for everyones input so far, if I dont post again tonight, the next time will probably be tomorrow after Ive gotten the new plug wires in, yall been some good help.