5 lug conv in progress.... Questions
#11
#13
Get the two port master cylinder, and dont get that conversion kit that keeps the stock master cylinder.
Here is the adjustable proportioning valve.
[img]
[/img]
Here is the cobra booster and master cylinder.
[/img]
[/img]
Here are the new booster next to stock fox.
[img]
[/img]
Hope this helps...I'll go take some pics and post again later.
Here is the adjustable proportioning valve.
[img]
[/img]
Here is the cobra booster and master cylinder.
[/img]
[/img]
Here are the new booster next to stock fox.
[img]
[/img]
Hope this helps...I'll go take some pics and post again later.
#14
Btw, the two master cylinder ports go to the top two ports on the proportioning valve. The port closest to the firewall goes to the drivers side I believe, and the other two go accross the firewall, one to the passenger side caliper and one to the adjustable proportioning valve which then runs to the back.
Last edited by Tony71502; 07-21-2009 at 10:54 PM.
#15
The fitting is in the passenger side, your right. The two bottom ports of the prop valve are the ones that go across the engine bay. The rear goes to the drivers front caliper. I hope you're not trying to use the stock proportioning valve. Then you would need the 3-2 conversion kit which requires the stock master cylinder which is not enough for 4 wheel discs.
[img]
[/img]
These are the parts that get removed from the proportioning valve. The black rubber piece is the cap for the hole in the fitting.
[img]
[/img]
[img]
[/img]
These are the parts that get removed from the proportioning valve. The black rubber piece is the cap for the hole in the fitting.
[img]
[/img]
Last edited by Tony71502; 06-20-2009 at 07:18 PM.
#16
thanks man, i'm a visual, hands on kinda guy so that really helps.
i got the sn95 booster in. i had to drill a new hole and wobble out the others a little.
i took the plunger and the spring out and plug off the front port.
i know this is repetitive but the back port on the sn95 prop valve. How to i plug in the line there?
THe line that connect to the bottom of the old master should plug into there right?
here is a pic
as you can see 4 ports out of the five are hooked up
all i have is the brake line that faces straight up and down and is the one that connected to the old master.
maybe i'm connecting the lines up wrong to prop valve
i got the sn95 booster in. i had to drill a new hole and wobble out the others a little.
i took the plunger and the spring out and plug off the front port.
i know this is repetitive but the back port on the sn95 prop valve. How to i plug in the line there?
THe line that connect to the bottom of the old master should plug into there right?
here is a pic
as you can see 4 ports out of the five are hooked up
all i have is the brake line that faces straight up and down and is the one that connected to the old master.
maybe i'm connecting the lines up wrong to prop valve
#18
i'm using the sn95 prop valve, mine doesnt' have three port (blocks) coming off the top of mine like yours does.
Another question do i need any adapters to make the back port and bottom ports (sn95 valve) fit my hard lines? cuz they tread but i turned one like 100 times lol. and its still not snug?
Another question do i need any adapters to make the back port and bottom ports (sn95 valve) fit my hard lines? cuz they tread but i turned one like 100 times lol. and its still not snug?
#19
As you can see in my prop valve photo there are 2 adpaters on lines, one in the back and the bottom left. The DS caliper line is still fox style, you have to cut a good inch and a half off of it and double flare it with a different fitting to make it fit the back adapter, at least that is how I did mine. Maybe you can get an adapter with the same threads as the stock fitting so you just have to cut and flare without changing the fitting.
So you have the fitting without a hole? Good.
The booster was a bitch getting in, but its the same bolt pattern. I had to enlage one of the holes and, like I said, cut a notch in the strut tower and also cut a good half inch off of the booster studs.
So you have the fitting without a hole? Good.
The booster was a bitch getting in, but its the same bolt pattern. I had to enlage one of the holes and, like I said, cut a notch in the strut tower and also cut a good half inch off of the booster studs.
Last edited by Tony71502; 06-20-2009 at 08:12 PM.
#20
alright i that makes since cuz that back bottom line port was just turning and turning.
Where do i get that adapter fitting for the bottom port closet to booster?
how do i cut that brake line and flare it?
so i should cut the brake line before the bend so that it goes straight into the back port?
thanks again for helping me out. i'll probably have some more questions when i move to the back brakes, but i just need to finish the engine bay stuff before i move on
Where do i get that adapter fitting for the bottom port closet to booster?
how do i cut that brake line and flare it?
so i should cut the brake line before the bend so that it goes straight into the back port?
thanks again for helping me out. i'll probably have some more questions when i move to the back brakes, but i just need to finish the engine bay stuff before i move on