r1sky5.0

What parts do I need to rebuild an Aod tranny? Better yet what are the best internals to rebuild the tranny with to handle the abuse of the track every once in awhile? I am going to throw in a higher stall converter and a shift kit.

mjr46

shift kit,valve body upgrade, and heavier duty clutch bands in the tranny amongst other things

r1sky5.0

Where can I a rebuild kit if there is one?

mjr46

google lentech

r1sky5.0

thanks... Mjr46 would you happen to know why my temp gauge reads my car at 195- 200 when at a stop light and 195 when running!? I have the stock fan and no shroud.

mjr46

I'd start by putting a shroud back on so it'll channel the air across radiator properly in stop and go traffic

Liquid_02

My advice to you is get rid of the AOD, they are terrible transmissions. Get a 4R70W, which is basically the new AOD-E which derived from the AOD. The 70 means 700ft-lbs of torque it's meant to handle (after torque multiplification of the converter) and the W is for Wide gear ratio, first and second have a lower gear ratio for quicker acceleration. Trust me, you won't regret it.

Got my 4R in for about $2000, with the computer, tranny and converter. Got a used tranny from a 2000 Mustang 3.8 with 48,000km on it for about 600, 9.5" lock-up converter from precision industries for about 800 and got the TCS computer for about 500 w/ the wiring harness, and it's already stronger than you'll ever make an AOD, and more controllable since you can set each shift point individually with a laptop. My stock T-5 driveshaft even fit perfectly (after putting the AOD extension housing on the end of the trans to get the smaller bushing), was 1/2" shorter than it needed to be so close enough until I get a 9" in there.

luckythirteen13

LOL your bone stock 4r70w is strong then any aod ever made??? you know they made aods that can hold 1500hp right? full manual valve body takes care of shifting when you want and it doesnt need a laptop

i love my aod, great tranny, holds more hp then Liquid_02's 4r and cost a lot less to build/install

i have:
mechanical diode
2" OD band
A++ OD servo
full manual valve body with electric OD delete and trans brake
alto red clutches with kolene steels (added clutches to each gear)
one piece input shaft
3000rpm non lockup converter

NoGo95GT

One of the biggest weaknesses of the AOD/AODE'S/4R70W Transmissions is their very weak OD clutches. A couple romps in a slightly modified Mustang and their goes the overdrive. Lost mine in my stock AODE with one quick 50mph stomping after the Vortech.

Liquid_02

You do realize that the 4R70W & AODE are basically just upgraded versions of the AOD right? I never said my 4R was stronger than any AOD ever made, that'd just be ignorant. You COULD pour a grand or two into an AOD to make it as strong as a 4R, but you're making sacrifices at the same time, such as lock-up. At that, my 4R isn't even the strongest 4R they make. It's out of a V6 Mustang, they are the weakest. One out a a 4.2 truck is a little stronger than mine, just has an extra clutch is the only difference, and one out of a 5.4 (doesn't bolt up to a windsor engine though) is the strongest. Also, as far as adding extra clutches goes, sure it will make them grab harder, but you're sacrificing longevity, on top of that, the 4R has the 7 clutches that yours now has, the 4.2 has one more than that. Your AOD also has a Cast Iron drum, the 4R has a stamped steel.

AODE & the 4R have an improved Valve body that doesn't fail nor warp like the AOD's did
They both have the 2" OD band stock
Already has A OD Servo
Stronger Shafts
Can lock up in all gears if wanted
You get the Wide Gear Ratio Set with the 4R (will run you about a grand to do this to a AOD)
4R already has mechanical intermediate one way diode
4R Ratio: 1st: 2.84 2nd: 1.55 3rd: 1 4th: .67
AOD Ratio: 1st: 2.40 2nd: 1.40 3rd: 1 4th: .67
AODE & 4R70W have 7 Direct clutches in the 3.8 model, 8 in the 4.2
They both already have a Stamped Steel Drum

Among other things, basically you're getting a completely revised and improved tranny, aand more controllable tranny, for the same price, if not less.

There is no AOD that will hold a 1500hp launch, I don't care how they advertise it, if there is, there is nothing stock about it, it will "look" like an AOD, but that's about it. It won't even be the factory case.

Maybe now you see why your "built" AOD isn't such a great deal anymore. You had to sacrifice your lock-up in yours for the weak link, the input shaft, of the AOD transmissions. That is a thing of the past with the 4R's, I don't have to put a 1pc shaft in mine, Ford had revised that in the 15 years from when my trans what built, to when yours was built. I also have no need to put a manual valve body in mine, quite useless in-fact. I can use buttons if I feel, or wire it into my cruise control switches, to enable FULL manual shifting, with the press of a button, then turn it off on the drive home, just put it in OD and go. Where-as you'll have to keep moving that lever like a standard car. Though I will never have to use manual shifting, I'm not even wiring the manual shift option up, as I can just datalog, see what's happening, then change my shift-points, for every gear individually, with my laptop I am typing this message with, and it will shift at the same point time after time after time, keeping track times as consistant as possible at the track.

Essentially, I have everything you have, already in my 4R, and then some more, the big one being the wide gear ratio set, and every body knows how important gear ratio is on any application, the more the merrier.

I was in no way intending to start an argument, just pass on an outside option. One that most people don't even know exists. A cheaper, better and more efficient option. So once again, all I am saying, is to get all these features you already can get from a 4R, you're looking at probably double what it would cost just to put a 4R in the car.