calgarynotch

so my 89' lx coupe seems to run great when its started cold. it sounds smoother, drives smoother etc...after driving in hot weather (highway trips are the worst) it seems to lose power and run very rich. it gets very hot after alot of highway driving. it never has condensation in the exhaust and at wot it blows a faint of black. it doesn't have any stumbling or rough idle anymore. new o2's, new ECT, plugs seem rich, ive cleaned the maf, cleaned the iat awhile ago, my car has some bolt ons and no egr or air system. im getting about 180 miles to the tank in city driving fairly hard

i thought about moving the iac to the plastic elbow on my moroso cold air to see if that helps? maybe my fuel pump is going?

any help would be appreciated

mjr46

run a koer test and see if any codes turn up

calgarynotch

KOER codes came up as 21, 94, 44, 33

i have no emissions on the car except the egr valve which has nothing running to it

calgarynotch

well as far as ive read

CODE 21 - Engine Coolant Temperature, ECT Sensor Out Of Self Test Range. 0.3 to 3.7 volts

i just put a brand new napa ECT sensor in it when i did my rad about 2 months ago. what are the chances of this being the problem? it never used to throw this code.

the other three are to do with air injection and the egr not opening. these will not cause any durability issues will they?

nacanitihs

the 94 and 44 are thermactor crap. did you plug up that tube when you removed the smog? i completely removed it and just put plugs in the heads.

try replacing the ECT again.. if it does the same thing just return it lol


how long have you had that 75mm TB and spacer?

calgarynotch

It looked at the box the tb came in nd its a 70mm but its been on there since I've had the car.it seems to b. Sealed well. The thing is I can't tell if the ect is bad because its always ran rich. I never got a code before. Nor an engine light in a long time. It seems to be sluggish and powerfull at intermittent times. That sensor is expensive

camaroeater

I you running the test at operating temp. I know Ive gotten codes for either the ect or act b/c the engine wasn't warmed up causing the code.

Liquid_02

Check the voltage at the ECT with engine hot, at operation temp. Depending on how hot you have set to run, at 212 it should read ~.50v, @ 190 ~.65v and @ 180 ~.75v.

Also make sure it has a full 5v source.

From that code it's saying it's not getting anything from the ECT, so I suspect a broken wire.

You can also, with engine hot, at operating temp, check the resistance of the ECT. Remove the connector, then check the resistance, once again, depending on how hot you let it run @ 212F should read ~2.00kOhms @ 190F ~2.8kOhms and @ 180 ~3.8kOhms. This test will tell you if it is your ECT at fault, though chances are it's not. ECT's are almost never the cause of a problem on any vehicle, other than Volkswagens

nacanitihs

what MAF are you running? that may have something to do with your rich issue. i had a PMAS 75mm and it made me run 11.6 from idle to WOT. i changed it out to a PRO-M and it runs much better. not sure on the afr tho. the spark plugs are perfect. before they were blackish (rich)

calgarynotch

I'm very sure I have the stock maf which I cleaned today. I'm thinking maybe I'm getting bad heat soak into the IAT as well.moving it may be a good idea considering how good it runs in cold air tempteratures. I cleared the computer and drove about 20 miles in the city and it didn't show that CTS code again. So I don't know what's up.