Dj_Seph

Well, it's that time my shocks and possibly springs are done on this car. The ride is way harsh. So time to upgrade.

I just need some input on bang for the buck upgrades. I have about 600 bucks to work with but I'd rather not use all of that on suspension. I plan to autox the car and track it but it's also a DD I run 9in rims with 275s in the rear and 245s up front. I'd like the car to be a bit lower and I'd love to be able to adjust suspension settings.

So what would you guys recommend?

Dj_Seph

BUMP!

hookedonpower

I don't think you'll be auto-X'ing for $600 suspension; purchased new.

Caster camber plates for $200...MM CC's are supposed to be the strongest, best out there for our fox's...Also kind of a must if your car is lowered. A couple of my Mustangs have been lowered w/out CC's and road like ****.

Rear lower control arms for $250ish?? Maximum Motorsports I'd recommend again for this. Tack on another $50 if you want to adjust your ride height w/ an Adjustable version LCA.

Springs(Eibach pro-kit or sport) H&R springs are supposed to be good too. (IIRC the Pro-kit doesn't drop the car as much as the sport) $200ish for springs

Subframe connectors for sure. $125ish This is probably the first upgrade that ANY fox body owner should do.

Shocks and struts, you're looking at about 160ish a strut and 95ish a shock for the good stuff(Billstein, Tokico Illumina's or D-spec, Koni Yellows) or considerably cheaper for say a Tokico Blue...$225 for the set I think but IIRC(don't quote me on this) the tokico blue's aren't to be used for Auto-X....? Billsteins come factory set for the awesome...Tokico Illumina's have a 5-way dial. D-spec are also adjustable. Koni's CAN be adjustable.

I've never Auto-X'd, but I personally wouldn't take my car on a track w/out those mentioned things because I know how much BULL**** the Fox's handle like stock

302army187

I love the stuff on my car. changed the hole ride of the car from harsh and feeling like the car was falling apart, to where i can adjust it to drive like a cadillac over bumps, or stiffin it up at the flip of a dial to throw it around corners.

suspension mod's are in my signature.

JD1969

The BEST option is going to be a torque arm conversion. Either Maximum Motorsports or Griggs Racing. This will not be cheap as you need the tq arm, pan hard bar and possibly new subframes. However it is the best solution if you want your Mustang to handle well. Of course this will put you in a higher atuo x class, butt the way it handles and rides on the street is worth it IMO. The issue at hand is that the rear suspension binds on a stock set up. This causes the ride to be more harsh AND will cause snap oversteer when you push the car to its limits.

Dj_Seph

Are the subframe connectors a bolt in thing or would they have to be welded in?

Also where can these strange engineering struts that everyone talks about be found? They surely aren't on the MM site.

And for teh caster and camber plates, what is the difference between the 87-89 and 90-93 ones? Also would I need a different one if I have done the five lug conversion?

projectresto83

Summit and team Z motorsports sell the strange struts that are so kick ***.

Subframe connectors can be bolted in if they are made to but welding them is your best bet and even if you buy bolt in ones I would weld them anyway. MM's full lengths are what you need. The geometry was done a little different with the 90-93's. I would buy the 87-89 since you have an 87 but thats just me.

domindart

Strange 10 way adjustables are what I have my sight set on. Subframes, CC plates, bumpsteer kit I believe, and some other little goodies!

hookedonpower

I didn't think it was possible to do a 3link w/out sub frame connectors. Just the set for this, no LCA's or connectors is more than $600 from MM. Learn how to drive if you feel you need this before struts, shocks, etc to handle your oversteer problems for the time being.

If you have done a 5 lug conversion you still use the 87-93 struts and 87-89/90-93 specific plates.

JD1969

I said possibly new subframes because the MM kit is made to work with certain SF connectors and I was not sure if the OP had them or not. I had Kenny Browns on my car and had to weld on re-enforcements. The OP has also said that this is a DD car, most people auto x a few times a year but street drive their cars all the time. IMO the TQ conversion is worth it just for the handling and ride improvement, even if you never race the car. I have the MM set up on my car and would never go back. BTW I drive just fine and handle oversteer with no issues, both before and after the TQ arm. BTW the guys who are suggesting the strange 10 ways are forgetting that the damper (shock) should be matched to the spring. I might be wrong, but strange 10 ways are more a drag shock than an auto x part.