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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 08-30-2009, 06:57 PM   #21
50enzo
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check the module on the side of the distributor, and the maf sensor. i had the module go out...$300 later...it was a $15 part.. i also had a similar problm in my notch..it came from a dirty fouled maf sensor.clean that with carb cleaner and a q-tip...=free!! huge diff!!
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:17 PM   #22
92hatchLX
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Why the hell would you throw hundreds of dollars of parts at a car not knowing if that is the issue. If your lines aren't leaking and the baffle isn't broken loose why did you replace them? Get some MAF cleaner from the parts store, remove your MAF from the housing, clean the hell out of it. You don't need to use a q-tip or anything, don't even touch the MAF wires. Just spray them down with the cleaner. Have you tried pulling any codes?
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:50 PM   #23
cholericfc
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The baffling inside the fuel tank WAS in fact coming loose, something I wanted to replace with the new engine, anyways. The two nylon/rubber fuel lines coming off the tank were hand-made by me, were kinked and not really made properly.

The only thing I 'threw' money at was new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor = that was my mechanics advice.

I cleaned the MAF sensor with q-tips recently, its never dirty bc I drive it less than 5,000 miles a year.

How to you check the TFI module?
The MAF sensor is used and about 5-8 years old... Can a MAF sensor really make your car backfire and run like crap???

thanks for your advice guys!

92HatchLX = I'll try not to disappoint you from now on.
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:12 AM   #24
92hatchLX
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Well those two things make sense now. Sorry for jumping on your *** about it. Don't clean it with q-tips. Get some MAF cleaner from the parts store and just spray it down. I'll garuntee you it's dirty if you haven't properly cleaned it yet. You never mentioned if you had tried to pull any codes on it yet or not. They MAF sensor is THE most sensitive sensor on this motor. I'm a tech at a shop and I've seen a dirty MAF cause countless numbers of older fords (even on both of my foxes) to run like absolute crap and confuse many mechanics. You won't believe the peformance/driveability/fuel mileage gains in cleaning it, if it is infact as dirty as I'm guessing it is.
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Last edited by 92hatchLX; 08-31-2009 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 08-31-2009, 04:26 AM   #25
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What I'm saying though is 1,500 miles ago I cleaned it. I'm wondering if its faulty and time to get a replacement. If it weren't for the money I spent on the other stuff, I'd have money for a new maf meter. but wait, what I cleaned was the inside of the meter, within the cold air intake. Can you even clean the sensor? or are you talking about the same thing?

It won't pull codes unless the engine light is on. I've tried despite that, but nothing comes up.

I still haven't checked my timing.
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Old 08-31-2009, 04:28 AM   #26
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The code reader I have is some Walmart brand thing btw.
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Old 08-31-2009, 03:10 PM   #27
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What did you clean it with? If you look on top of the MAF housing (round metal piece that holds the MAF sensor) there's a plastic body that the MAF harness plugs into. There should either be some phillips head or tamper proof torx holding that down. Remove those two screws, remove the sensor and spray down the wires with MAF cleaner. There are certain codes that will not activate the CEL light. They should have a better scanner at your parts store, they'll scan it for you. If you are anywhere in colorado I'd say bring it over to the shop and I'll hook the Modis up to it
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-UPR control arms
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Old 09-01-2009, 03:47 PM   #28
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Any news?
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2012 GT 5.0 6M (Brembo/3.73)
-Tuned by Ken Bjonnes of Lund Racing
-Paxton 2200SL
-ID1000 injectors
-FRPP plugs
-Roush Axlebacks
-UPR control arms
-Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials (track)

Http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/
Http://www.lundracing.com/
Http://www.revanracing.com/
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:15 PM   #29
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Does your car only do that when hot? I have similar problems. When cold, it accelerates like a champ, but after driving for a few miles in this heat, it starts to act up. From a stop, I can't rev it too high or else it cuts out real hard, as if the gear popped out. When in motion and constant, it'll sputter for a fraction of a second, right?

I am convinced it's ignition related and not fuel related for me. Ive changed my stator, the TFI module was changed earlier this year (Before the stator) and now im looking to change my coil.


I'd bet your problem is more heatsoaked stuff than it is fuel related
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:11 PM   #30
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Not yet... I'm anxious to get to it... I won't be near my car until Friday. I really wish YOU and your Modis was a little closer to Philadelphia

I appreciate your interest in helping me. I have a feeling that the sensor has gone bad. When I cleaned it last, I used either Carb Cleaner OR Throttle Body Cleaner with q-tips. I think I used the TB Cleaner for the IAC and the TB, anddd used the Carb Cleaner on the MAF. I was told that the Carb Cleaner is the same as MAF cleaner.

Who would have a MODIS near me?

---The car is fine at a stand-still. After I finally got it back together, it was idling at 1,500rpms and then after driving it a little, it evened out to 700-900rpms. During the first few miles, it seems fine, but then it lags until I get the rpms high up. When the hesitation happens around 2,000rpms in 4th gear... IF I downshift into 3rd, obviously allowing the rpms to rise, you don't notice any power, it just gets louder.

My mechanic said, "Its not the tranny. It's all motor"

The distributor is the one that came with the car when I bought it FIVE years ago. So who knows how old that thing is. The MSD Ignition Coil was bought at the same time as the new engine.
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Old 09-01-2009, 09:11 PM
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