T-5 to automatic swap. Any tips? plz help
#1
T-5 to automatic swap. Any tips? plz help
I have a 93 stang and over time its become decently modded. Anyway I noticed that with every major mod that i would do to it my tranny would take a dump. Its (the old t5) on its green mile now and it will be the third time I rebuild it since 06. So im tired of that BS. Sure everyone likes to drive stick and i don't mind it but I was thinking of putting in an automatic tranny this time around. My tranny has never been a cheap fix anyway so what the hell? I may even like it. So that my big issue.
c4 c6 or aod. and the computer issue as well. What year of stangs have these transmissions so i can get the computer as well.
anyone know a good stall size?
93 stang - granatelli cold air intk - 90mm lightning mass air -30lb injectors - 75mm ThB - Trickflow intk - Brodix 505Rs -FRPP X-303 - BBK full exhst - full MSD ign - QA1 tubular everything and coilovers - big brakes and sum other stuff i dont have time to put down
c4 c6 or aod. and the computer issue as well. What year of stangs have these transmissions so i can get the computer as well.
anyone know a good stall size?
93 stang - granatelli cold air intk - 90mm lightning mass air -30lb injectors - 75mm ThB - Trickflow intk - Brodix 505Rs -FRPP X-303 - BBK full exhst - full MSD ign - QA1 tubular everything and coilovers - big brakes and sum other stuff i dont have time to put down
#2
aod's are NOT computer controlled so it doesn't matter
you have to keep your current computer anyways.
c4 will be the strongest and cheapest but no OD, so it's lke driving in 4th all the time on a t5 (1:1)
stall speed needs to be 3000+ , leaning towards 3500 , i used a 2200 in my first 5.0 that was aod and it was no diff than stock, advertised stall is lower in mustangs since they are light
if you go AOD seriously look into lentech
my '90 smoked 3 aod's in 6 years, i bought it brand new and it was never faster than 14's so it's not like it was overwhelmed
the guy i sold it to, swapped a t5 into it, and squirted 150... it went 12.20's then
you have to keep your current computer anyways.
c4 will be the strongest and cheapest but no OD, so it's lke driving in 4th all the time on a t5 (1:1)
stall speed needs to be 3000+ , leaning towards 3500 , i used a 2200 in my first 5.0 that was aod and it was no diff than stock, advertised stall is lower in mustangs since they are light
if you go AOD seriously look into lentech
my '90 smoked 3 aod's in 6 years, i bought it brand new and it was never faster than 14's so it's not like it was overwhelmed
the guy i sold it to, swapped a t5 into it, and squirted 150... it went 12.20's then
#3
tips, get the auto jumper for the clutch safety switch, unbolt the clutch pedal, remove the pilot bearing and flywheel, install flexplate, auto trans trans lines/cooler and the rest of the parts done
#6
going to AOD from T5 they say to use the auto computer not the manual, but going from auto to T5 like i did either works fine
iirc the auto computer is A9P, you can sell your A9L or swap with your brother etc
iirc the auto computer is A9P, you can sell your A9L or swap with your brother etc
#9
So all in all yes it is a straight easy swap.
Remove
t5
flywheel
pilot bearing
pedal setup with cable
Install
shifter and cable
flexplate (FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE BOLTS ARE DIFFERENT IN LENGTH JUST FOR THE FYI)
trans with converter
trans cooler lines
On a side note with the crossmember though, you might have to grind the welds on it to get it to adjust and get the holes for the trans mount to bolt in. nothing big
swap to the auto computer (bc it needs the right tune to idle right while in gear, blah blah)
Remove
t5
flywheel
pilot bearing
pedal setup with cable
Install
shifter and cable
flexplate (FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE BOLTS ARE DIFFERENT IN LENGTH JUST FOR THE FYI)
trans with converter
trans cooler lines
On a side note with the crossmember though, you might have to grind the welds on it to get it to adjust and get the holes for the trans mount to bolt in. nothing big
swap to the auto computer (bc it needs the right tune to idle right while in gear, blah blah)
Last edited by projectresto83; 09-11-2009 at 03:51 PM.
#10
stick with the manual. get a real transmission. 3550, TKO, G-Force T5. All better than a stock replacement T5.
You're running into rebuild problems because the T5 is rated for 300 ft lbs. That is exactly what these motors have, stock. The second you install anything that will increase that, the transmission is on its way out.
G-Force rebuild will last you alot longer, and save the headache of pedal assembly swap.
You're running into rebuild problems because the T5 is rated for 300 ft lbs. That is exactly what these motors have, stock. The second you install anything that will increase that, the transmission is on its way out.
G-Force rebuild will last you alot longer, and save the headache of pedal assembly swap.