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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 11-09-2009, 01:31 AM   #1
StillDyl
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Default 1994 Heater Core Replacement

Is my repair manual right!?! do i really have to take the dash apart and get the A/C discharged or w.e.
anyone have an easier way? or can someone point me to a write up of one please?
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:41 AM   #2
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Here ya go
Click the image to open in full size.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove two console armrest mounting access covers at rear of console panel to access armrest bolts.
3. Remove four armrest to floor bracket bolts, then armrest assembly.
4. Remove console panel gear shift plate, noting following:

1. On models equipped with manual transmission, shift boot is attached to bottom of finish panel.
2. Remove shift **** and slide boot and console panel gear shift plate up shift lever to remove.

5. Remove top finish panel as follows:

1. Position emergency brake lever in UP position.
2. Remove four screws and lift finish panel up.
3. Disconnect necessary electrical connectors.

6. Remove console to rear floor bracket screws, then snap out front upper finish panel by inserting small screwdriver into notches at bottom of panel.
7. Remove radio/stereo.
8. Flex glove compartment bin tabs inward, then drop down glove compartment assembly and remove two console to instrument panel screws.
9. Remove four console bracket screws, then console panel from vehicle.
10. Remove three steering column opening cover to reinforcement panel bolts, then cover.
11. Remove steering column opening reinforcement bolts and reinforcement.
12. Remove six steering column nuts, then lower steering column to floor.
13. Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds and disconnect wiring from turn signal and wiper switch.
14. Remove steering column through-bolt and nut on engine compartment side of cowl panel, then steering column from vehicle.
15. Remove brake pedal support nut.
16. Snap out instrument panel defroster opening grill.
17. Remove screws from speaker covers, then snap out covers.
18. Remove front screws retaining righthand and lefthand scuff plates at cowl side trim panels.
19. Remove righthand and lefthand cowl side trim panels, then disconnect wiring at righthand cowl side.
20. Remove cowl side bolts, then five cowl top screw attachments.

22. Gently pull instrument panel away from righthand side of cowl panel.
23. Disconnect speedometer cable, air conditioning controls and wire connectors.

23. Place drain pan or suitable container under heater water hose connections at cowl panel.
24. Recover A/C system.
25. Disconnect condenser to evaporator tube and suction accumulator/drier inlet tube from evaporator core at cowl panel. Cap refrigerant lines and evaporator core tube to prevent dirt and moisture from entering system.
26. Remove high- and low-pressure hoses, then cap hose openings.
27. Disconnect heater water hoses from heater core tubes and plug heater water hoses with suitable 5/8 inch and 3/4 inch plugs. Cap tubes to prevent coolant loss from heater core during heater case removal.
28. Remove A/C evaporator case support bracket to cowl top panel screw, then disconnect vacuum supply hose (black) from A/C vacuum supply in engine compartment.
29. Working under hood, remove heater case to cowl panel nut, then, working inside passenger compartment, remove A/C evaporator case mounting bracket to cowl top panel screw.
30. Remove one screw retaining A/C evaporator case mounting bracket below heater case to cowl panel, then carefully pull evaporator case from cowl panel and remove from vehicle.
31. Reverse procedure to install, noting following:

1. Check operation of all components.
2. Check coolant level in radiator and coolant recovery reservoir. Fill as required with recommended coolant mixture.
3. Torque top bracket nut and screw to 7.6-10.2 ft lb .
4. Torque bottom bracket screw to 15-19 in lb .
5. Torque underhood retaining nut and accumulator bracket nuts to 5-6.9 ft lb .





Click the image to open in full size.
1. Remove heater case from vehicle. See: Evaporator Case\Service and Repair
2. Remove four heater core access cover retaining screws, and remove access cover from case.
3. Lift heater core and seal from case.
4. Remove seal from heater core tubes. Installation

1. Install heater core tube seal on heater core tubes.
2. Inspect heater core sealer in heater case. Replace, if necessary with Caulking Cord D6AZ-19560-A (ESB-M4G32-A) or equivalent.
3. Install heater core in case with seals on outside of case.
4. Position heater core access cover on case. Install four retaining screws.
5. Install heater assembly as outlined.
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Old 11-09-2009, 07:14 PM   #3
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yeah the dash needs to come out. should NOT have to discharge the AC though... actually doing the heater core is 15 minutes... getting to it is about 3 hours, and putting it all back is another 3

sucks but they want like $800 at a shop, and i don't know about you... but i can't make $100/hour (legally anyways)
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:37 PM   #4
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me and a friend did mine 94 gt convert and it took us 5hours and we did discharge the ac and removed the dash then reasembled the car back together,,,Wasnt that bad and had a friend with a vac pump and gauges and did my ac back for 22.00 of refridgerant works good now ...
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrous_bob View Post
yeah the dash needs to come out. should NOT have to discharge the AC though...
Please explain how that is possible. The evaporator in the hvac case, there's no way around it.
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Old 11-09-2009, 08:55 PM   #6
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I agree with the above comment
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Old 11-09-2009, 11:54 PM   #7
StillDyl
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thanks for the help.
holy crap. it took me 10 minutes on my 92 f250. highly considering paying someone hahaha
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Red 94 GT Black Leather Interior
Lowered 2" W/ struts and sway bars
Stage 1 clutch
Light weight fly wheel
Smog and A/C bypassed!
BBK headers, O/R H-Pipe, Flowmasters
BBK CAI
15% and 5% tint
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Old 11-10-2009, 01:48 AM   #8
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late model resto has a good write up for foxes. not sure how much of it retains to the sn platform though.
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:08 AM   #9
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f'that! just bi pass your heater hose's. you wont have a heater, but at least you save yourself the trouble and money. besides, i never use the heatrr anyway. waive your option's!
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Old 11-10-2009, 12:09 PM   #10
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I have been driving with the bypass for almost 2 yrs now as it was not needed very often in phoenix. Now after moving back to the midwest I am looking forward(sarcasm) to this repair in a week or two.

One small note is that I don't think the instructions above are perfectly correct for the dash panel around the radio on a 94. You will need to pull the radio out, and then remove the 9/32"(7mm) screw that is located at the very back of the radio slide brace, as well as the two screws directly below the radio before removing that panel. If you do a google search I am fairly sure that there is an instructional page somewhere that has actual pics as well. I am planning on havin a buddy help me and also install a new alarm, replace the guage bulbs and replace that stupid rubber boot that tears around the parking brake.
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Old 11-10-2009, 12:09 PM
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