aluminum shaft
#31
RE: aluminum shaft
they will loosen up as you grind your needle bearings apart...you need to do them again and be real careful when pressing them in...i always try to move the joint back and forth as i press it in...this way you can try to avoid damaging bearings...
the fact that the ujoint clicks tells me that one of the bearings is fallen out of place and been broken...
this will most likely be your vibration...
the fact that the ujoint clicks tells me that one of the bearings is fallen out of place and been broken...
this will most likely be your vibration...
#32
RE: aluminum shaft
I was really thinking about doing that again. When I changed the last one I used a socket and hammer to put them in. I know that I shouldn't do that but let me tell you what, it only took to smacks of the hammer to get the cap to go in. After I was done I moved the joint around and it was like butter.
#35
RE: aluminum shaft
Ok man I'm not an expert and I don't make alot of money so I haft to work on my stuff too. On my 87 GT I took the rearend (all of it) out of my car and replaced with a used one (free). My car started to shake also when the speed reached around 55 so I took it for an alignment. The guy at the alignment place shot me a story about the rear of the car having to be aligned to. I said ok what the hell give it a try. Well now I have no more shakes. I never herd that the rear of a mustang could be aligned but I do know it didn't cost extra and it worked. GOOD LUCK!
#36
RE: aluminum shaft
the rear of the mustangs cannot be aligned...unless you have a newer cobra that has independant rear...
i am a professional and i can tell you that the vibration is a ujoint, tire or driveshaft...
now correct me if i am wrong but the vibration didnt start until the original ujoint went bad...this pretty much eliminates tire balance as the cause...
i am a professional and i can tell you that the vibration is a ujoint, tire or driveshaft...
now correct me if i am wrong but the vibration didnt start until the original ujoint went bad...this pretty much eliminates tire balance as the cause...
#37
RE: aluminum shaft
I took my drive shaft over to a machine shop that does drive shafts. He told me that I need a new yoke and that the front u-joint is just a little to tight. Other than that the shaft looked good. A new yoke looks cost something like $102 at ford. I had seen an aluminum shaft on line for $175 (used), but when I called it had already been sold. So right now I have to get a new yoke and replace the u-joint. Has any one ever changed out the bearing that is just inside the tale end of the shaft that the drive shaft rides on? He tell me that I may need to change that to because it looks like it was scoring up the yoke. I asked him if I need an aluminum shaft because of the gears that I'm running, He said that the only thing that the aluminum shaft does for a car is let it spin up faster becasue of the weight reduction other than that he said that there should be no reason why I couldn't use the original for a much larger gear.
#38
RE: aluminum shaft
When I put my drive shaft back on I rotated it a half turn to see if that would take out the vibration that I have been feeling. So far so good there is a slight vibration but no where near what i had before. I think that I'm going to take it off and replace the front u-joint because it's a little tight. Thanks for the advise that all of you have given me.
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