Still Running Rich on both Sides
#1
Still Running Rich on both Sides
The correct method of performing the check on the ECT(engine coolant temperature) sensor/wire was performed, and no problems were found, i even replaced the sensor to make sure, and its still running crumby.The fuel filter has been replaced, new plugs with ford racing wires, MAF is clean(?). The TPS(throttle position sensor) has been replaced.
A 1995 Mustang GT with 5.0 and has an AODE Transmission.
Only modifications to car: BBK Headers, BBK 70mm throttle body, a K&N air filter, dual exhaust w/ flowmaster turbos (pipes are right size).
Fuel Pressure is within correct range with and without the vacuum line plugged in.
There is no check engine light on, when i took it to the Ford dealership, they found a code, that said it was running rich on both sides.
Symptoms: Sometimes car wont even start on the first turn key, like it gets drowned out.While at a dead stop, i have put the tranny in reverse and it just died, that happened once. When driving and given gas, the RPM will forcefully drop off for no reason to like 1100, doing 60mph, i cant stop it from dropping off by giving it gas, i have floored the pedal and the engine wont rev at all, ill lightly tap the brake and the RPM will reset to wear it is supposed to be, and it will repeat this crap over when given gas. Sometimes a very heavy exhaust smell when driving with the windows down.
It doesnt run like a 5.0 should, no matter what year. Feels like it only has
150 hp, 90% of the time. This car very rarely ever works the way it should. I dont have no idea what to do, its driving me crazy, and burning a hole in my pocket at the gas pump. My 4 Brrl 1980 Corvette gets 100 more miles out of a tank of gas, its that bad.
Since ive had it, it has been well taken care of, oil changed every 3000 miles, 93 octane or higher only gets burned in it.
Please anybody, HELP!
A 1995 Mustang GT with 5.0 and has an AODE Transmission.
Only modifications to car: BBK Headers, BBK 70mm throttle body, a K&N air filter, dual exhaust w/ flowmaster turbos (pipes are right size).
Fuel Pressure is within correct range with and without the vacuum line plugged in.
There is no check engine light on, when i took it to the Ford dealership, they found a code, that said it was running rich on both sides.
Symptoms: Sometimes car wont even start on the first turn key, like it gets drowned out.While at a dead stop, i have put the tranny in reverse and it just died, that happened once. When driving and given gas, the RPM will forcefully drop off for no reason to like 1100, doing 60mph, i cant stop it from dropping off by giving it gas, i have floored the pedal and the engine wont rev at all, ill lightly tap the brake and the RPM will reset to wear it is supposed to be, and it will repeat this crap over when given gas. Sometimes a very heavy exhaust smell when driving with the windows down.
It doesnt run like a 5.0 should, no matter what year. Feels like it only has
150 hp, 90% of the time. This car very rarely ever works the way it should. I dont have no idea what to do, its driving me crazy, and burning a hole in my pocket at the gas pump. My 4 Brrl 1980 Corvette gets 100 more miles out of a tank of gas, its that bad.
Since ive had it, it has been well taken care of, oil changed every 3000 miles, 93 octane or higher only gets burned in it.
Please anybody, HELP!
#4
Symptoms: Sometimes car wont even start on the first turn key, like it gets drowned out.While at a dead stop, i have put the tranny in reverse and it just died, that happened once. When driving and given gas, the RPM will forcefully drop off for no reason to like 1100, doing 60mph, i cant stop it from dropping off by giving it gas, i have floored the pedal and the engine wont rev at all, ill lightly tap the brake and the RPM will reset to wear it is supposed to be, and it will repeat this crap over when given gas. Sometimes a very heavy exhaust smell when driving with the windows down.
the above highighted issues leads me to believe that you have a transmission problem. the fact that the car will correct itself when you tap on the brakes shows that you could possibly be having issues with your (what GM refers to as a) torque converter lockup solenoid.
also, one thing you should do is test your fuel pressure while driving the car.. not just at idle with the vac on and off.. you need to get some REAL diagnostic data
#5
Since your SN95 is an auto, have you tried a few test drives with the O/D off? Agree with AdderMk2. BTW, you should also run a DIY KOER self test to verify if the A/F rich codes show up. LUK
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post