VegasNick

Hey everyone, does anyone have any experience with smogging a B303 cammed motor? Should it pass? Is it well known not to pass? All stock emission controls are there and operational as far as I can tell. So far I've tried new O2's, another h-pipe with good cats(after finding the one on the car was missing the guts from inside), checked EGR, smog pump, and various valves, solenoids, diverters, etc. 91 octane, with and without octane booster. I've smogged it about 10 times now, tweaking different things. The consistent failure is the HC's, or hydrocarbons, are at best 500-600, target is below 220. I'm in Nevada, and I think our smog test are similiar to CA. The engine was just rebuilt stock EXCEPT the following: KB 10:1 pistons, B303 cam, rollor 1.7 rockers. I know that setup isn't gonna breath well till I update the intake, that will be stage 2, once I get the damn thing plated. Oh, and it's and '89 GT. Thanks everybody!

Nick

wildstang87

your setup will never be smog friendly, with the Bcam and 17.rr, you gotta lot of lift, and you are probably running rich giving you higher HCs. i dont know what would help besides a crooked sniffer.

Albizo66

Just give the mechanic a ride in your car..give him a show..and then slip him a $20..you'll probably pass then

VegasNick

Damn, anyway here in nevada, they test at 2500 RPM, then idle. It passes the 2500 RPM test with around 60 PPM of HC's, which is well below the 220 PPM limit, then it blows around 500-600 PPM at idle. WildStang87, you said it was probably running rich, and you're right I think, after looking at the plugs tonight. What would cause that? The cam grind? Other than the test it runs great . . .back and forth to the smog station down the street! Thanks Guys!
Nick

99saleen351r

The B-cam is not an emmisions cam.Thas were the E- cam comes in handy the E stands for Emmisions chances are you'll have a very hard time with that cam.Do you have 4 cats on the car??

Quik

with the duratation of the cam it makes it had for it to pass emissions along with the lift and lobe seperation. then you added another .030 of lift to the mix. along with a higher CR. youre kinda screwd. try to get it to be except and just keep it under 5k a year

ZachW04Stang

Theres a statement that says higher hydro carbons means your running rich, its actually the opposite. It means your running lean. 220-500ppm is lean, 500-1000 is normally lean misfire but can be misfire, and 1000+ ppm is misfire. If your running rich you hc will read below 220 but your co will read above the legal 1.2%. Hope this helps

luckythirteen13

hi hydrocarbons is also a sign of a week ignition system but if your passing at 2500 i would think it would pass at idle if its just an ignition thing. what type of ignition mods do you have such as coil, wires, plugs?

wildstang87

really, hmmm. i dont have emmisions in my state so i dont know much about them, but with his setup if hes running lean hes got a big problem. if this is the case bump the fuel pressure up a little, and check the TPS voltage(at idle) the higher the setting the richer the idle.

VegasNick

IT PASSED!!!!!
After 10 or so tries I got it right(no pass, no pay policy well exploited). The night before I tested it, I replaced the crappy Bosch spark plugs with Motorcraft, dialed the timing back to 10, bumped the idle up to around a grand, and BLAMMO! It blew around 60 on HC's and 0.00 on CO's! After 600 HC, and 1.5-3.0 CO's! I have a graph from a ford EFI tuner book that shows ideal timing for emissions to be around, or even just below 10 degrees advance. I would have thought more advance to a certain point would burn more fuel, but it worked. Also, I should note what may have been the key trick for all that are listening . . . I bumped the idle up by modifying an old IAC valve by installing an adjusting screw in place of the solenoid. Ths allowed me to let more air in without disrupting the TPS sensor, maybe tricking into a leaner idle???? I have a stock ignition except for MSD blaster oem replacement coil, and all four cats by the way. I wonder how much of it was the Bosch plugs, because I had tested it with a fast idle(set by the throttle stop screw, not my modified IAC) before, and at 10 degrees. The B303 will pass, thank god I don't have to take it out. Thanks everybody!