mrdeep2001

Hey guys, I need your expertise.

I was driving down the highway the other day and my car shut off while driving. It didnt stumble or anything, RPMs went straight to zero. Tried to crank start it, it would crank but not start, starter motor was going, but it didnt even try to start. Then I just let the clutch out while in gear hoping to bump start it, but nothing there either.

Pulled off to the side of the road, some guy comes by gives me some gas and sprays my MAF, car starts up. He says my gas guage is broke, but I only drove like 100miles since filling up...Anyway I pulled of to next exit, filled up on gas, and the car died again right as I was about to exit the parking lot. Ended up getting towed home. ;(

So it seems that after the car warms up, itll shut off and cant be restarted. If I wait awhile sometimes I can get it going again, but usually not for long. I did some searching and found that some common issues for this are the PIP in the dizzy and the TFI module. I had the TFI module tested twice at the parts store and it checks out. That leaves the PIP, which I dont really know how to check, so if you have any info on that, I'll take it! A friend of mine has a fox I can get the dizzy out of, but the TFI Module is mounted to the Fox dizzys so, would I still be able to use it?

Did some checking on air filter, cleaned the MAF and IAC. Found my TPS out of range voltage 1.22v where its supposed to be .98 or .99 I couldnt get one of the screws loose so I havent adjusted it yet.

Also, I ran some KOEO and KOER tests. I got the following:

codes pulled:
KOEO (Key On Engine On)
111-system ok

Constant Memory
113 - ACT (Air Charge Temperature) circuit has intermittenly failed above the maximum of 4.6volts
212 - Loss of IDM input to PCM or SPOUT circuit grounded
THIS IS ONE I THINK I NEED TO LOOK INTO, but I am not sure what to do?

332 - EGR valve opening not detected.

KOER (Key On Engine Running)
314 - Thermactor air system inoperative (left side)
311 - Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)
332 - EGR valve opening not detected.

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to give as much info as I could. Thanks for any help you can give guys!

Deep

mrdeep2001

bumpity bump bump bumpity bump bump I need to drive my car, bumpity bump bump...

stangman5.01988

Not real sure but you can check you fuel regulator should be around the back of the upper intake manifold it has a vacuum line connected to it adjust it down you could be flooding the engine adjusted up your starving it.

mattdel

212 is indeed the one you need to address.

You need to replace the PIP module(parts stores call it a pickup coil)

Mark the location of the base of your distributor, and mark the location of the rotor.
Pull distributor.
Knock roll pin out of cam gear.
Slide distributor shaft upwards and out.
Replace PIP.

Reverse.

mrdeep2001

So while I was working on replacing the dizzy, I pulled the old one out. When I did that, I looked into hole the dizzy goes into, and I saw this. Next to the gear that meshes with the dizzy gear, there is a piece of metal in which the dizzy shaft slides into. Is it supposed to be shaped like that and not a full circle? Or is something fubared? Trying to figure that out before putting new dizzy in...






Thanks dudes!

raven_ghostwolf

Sorry but that be broken!

mrdeep2001

do you know what it is or what it does? someone else posted up a pic on another forum and theres looks exactly the same and i think it is very unlikely for both of ours to be broken in the same fashion...

mattdel

It is indeed NOT broken. It is the hole that guides the oil pump driveshaft to meet with the dizzy shaft. It is shaped in that fashion to provide clearance for the cam gear to meet with the dizzy.

These are pictures of a 302 block in my garage, taken not 5 minutes ago.

raven_ghostwolf

My bad Mattdel, was double checking just now on a block I had you where just a wee bit faster.







The reflections and quality of this picture makes it look like an extra chunk of something is in there, threw me off.

mrdeep2001

thanks a ton for the pics guys! I was real worried for a bit. When I took out the old dizzy, i made marks where the rotor was, where it lined up on the cap and on the block, so when i put the new dizzy in, i wouldnt need a timing light. It took a little while to get in, but shes up and running now.

Thing is i saw another site about installing a dizzy and they said to test it, get the car up to 25-35mph, put in fourth and floor it to see if itll ping, which it did. So I rotated the dizzy counter-clockwise a little, tried it again until it didnt ping. You guys have any ideas? I dont have access to a timing light right now, or else id be trying that out.

Thanks again for your help all!

P.S. Regarding the PIP in the dizzy, I found that the PIP is supposed to tell the fuel pump to keep running as the dizzy turns (I am not sure if its the only function, but it is one of them atleast) As a test, if you manually rotate the dizzy while still plugged in, it should keep the fuel pump going. My old one did not, the new one did. Unfortunately, that wasnt the only issue for me, also replaced the TFI and Ignition coil, but hey, she drives!