Search



Go Back   MustangForums.com > Ford Mustang Tech > 5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search

5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Sponsored by Weld Racing


Welcome to Mustang Forums!
Welcome to Mustang Forums.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-14-2010, 10:18 AM   #1
cholericfc
3rd Gear Member

 
cholericfc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Vehicle: 1990 Mustang GT
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
Default Brake Booster & Master Cylinder

What's the best way to do a bench bleed?
Should I just install it all and bleed it as normal?

I'm replacing the following today:

Brake Booster
Master Cylinder
Front Brake Lines
Calipers
Rotors
Bearings
Pads
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________
"My Ding a Ding dang my Dang along ling Long"

302 Crate w/ B-cam; GT-40 Heads; Edelbrock Intake; 24lb. Injectors; T5 - converted from AOD; Full-out Suspension
For information about my set-up: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/659465

Last edited by cholericfc; 08-14-2010 at 06:53 PM.
cholericfc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2010, 06:36 PM   #2
Bubba 95SN
4th Gear Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Vehicle: 1995 Ford Mustang GT
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,891
Default

No help, someone to push pedal, bench bleed. Should be able to pump a couple of times then just open bleeder valves. Wait for fluid to come out. Want to spend a few $$ buy a one man bleeder kit.
Bubba 95SN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2010, 06:54 PM   #3
cholericfc
3rd Gear Member

 
cholericfc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Vehicle: 1990 Mustang GT
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
Default

bumppp
__________________
"My Ding a Ding dang my Dang along ling Long"

302 Crate w/ B-cam; GT-40 Heads; Edelbrock Intake; 24lb. Injectors; T5 - converted from AOD; Full-out Suspension
For information about my set-up: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/659465
cholericfc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2010, 11:28 PM   #4
cholericfc
3rd Gear Member

 
cholericfc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Vehicle: 1990 Mustang GT
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
Default

yeah, i broke one of the lines that connects to the master cylinder. I'm just going to replace all of the lines that connect to the master cylinder (just the three).

I don't have a lending hand, but benching bleeding sounds hard and I have no idea what I'm doing with this. I'm dumbfounded.

Any thorough step-by-step bench bleeding procedures with pictures or something???? help me.
__________________
"My Ding a Ding dang my Dang along ling Long"

302 Crate w/ B-cam; GT-40 Heads; Edelbrock Intake; 24lb. Injectors; T5 - converted from AOD; Full-out Suspension
For information about my set-up: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/659465
cholericfc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 11:13 AM   #5
mattdel
6th Gear Member
 
mattdel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Vehicle: 1986 LX, 87 GT Hatch, 89 GT Vert
Location: Spfld, MA
Posts: 9,240
Send a message via AIM to mattdel
Default

A new master cylinder kit should come with a cheapo bench bleeding kit. It should consist of 2 rubber lines and 2 plastic bungs that screw into the master.

Basically you just put the master in a vice(as straight as you can get it), hook up your two lines, fill with fluid, and use some sort of rod(wooden dowel, anything like this) and pump the master.
You'll want to pinch the lines shut as you push the rod in, let the rod come out normally, un-pinch the lines(to let the fluid drain a bit, and repeat.

You're looking for bubbles that float to the surface of the fluid inside the reservoir. After the bubbles stop(or barely come anymore), stop. Fill to the Full line and remove the lines, quickly inserting the caps that you were provided. If at any time the master runs out of fluid, you'll need to redo the whole bleed.

Now just install master into the car, again, being as quick as you can with the line installs, so the master doesn't run dry.
__________________

Last edited by mattdel; 08-16-2010 at 11:25 AM.
mattdel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2010, 11:36 AM   #6
mjr46
Wal-mart lube/tire tech
 
mjr46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Vehicle: 85 mustang
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 29,818
Default

I clamp it in a vise lightly and fill cylinder resevoir up then push with a screwdriver the plunger from the back and on the return stroke I cover the holes with my fingers as to not draw in air, just did one on friday, works like a charm, i Keep pushing the plunger in until it freely squirts out fluid, you can loop the kit lines into the resevoir to make it easier if the MC came with a bleed kit
__________________

Quote:
Originally Posted by dudegirl View Post
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
mjr46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2010, 05:42 PM   #7
.boB
3rd Gear Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 939
Default

I don't bench bleed the MC. If I do, I make a big mess trying to get it installed without spilling the fluid.

Install the MC and other new parts, and make all the new lines you need to make. When you install the new lines into the MC, don't tighten them much, just snug them up.


Then remove the lines from the MC, and install the MC kit. I just make loops out of brake line, rather than use the cheap kit that sometimes comes with the new MC. The fittings need to be pretty snug, so they don't suck air.

Now bleed the MC until no air bubbles are seen. One at a time, remove the loops from the MC, and install the proper fittings. Since they've been fit before, they should go right in. You'll lose a little fluid, but not much. So have some paper towels ready to absorb it.

Then you just bleed the system like you normally would.
__________________
.boB
'08 V6 Pony
'65 Monster FFR Roadster
.boB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2010, 05:42 PM
MustangForums
Ford Mustang




Paid Advertisement

 
 
 
Reply

Tags
1990, 2005, bench, bleeding, booster, brake, brkake, connecting, cylinder, ford, intake, lines, master, mustang, replacing

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
New Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:39 PM.

© Internet Brands, Inc.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company
Emails Backup