Brake Booster & Master Cylinder
#1
Brake Booster & Master Cylinder
What's the best way to do a bench bleed?
Should I just install it all and bleed it as normal?
I'm replacing the following today:
Brake Booster
Master Cylinder
Front Brake Lines
Calipers
Rotors
Bearings
Pads
Should I just install it all and bleed it as normal?
I'm replacing the following today:
Brake Booster
Master Cylinder
Front Brake Lines
Calipers
Rotors
Bearings
Pads
Last edited by cholericfc; 08-14-2010 at 06:53 PM.
#4
yeah, i broke one of the lines that connects to the master cylinder. I'm just going to replace all of the lines that connect to the master cylinder (just the three).
I don't have a lending hand, but benching bleeding sounds hard and I have no idea what I'm doing with this. I'm dumbfounded.
Any thorough step-by-step bench bleeding procedures with pictures or something???? help me.
I don't have a lending hand, but benching bleeding sounds hard and I have no idea what I'm doing with this. I'm dumbfounded.
Any thorough step-by-step bench bleeding procedures with pictures or something???? help me.
#5
A new master cylinder kit should come with a cheapo bench bleeding kit. It should consist of 2 rubber lines and 2 plastic bungs that screw into the master.
Basically you just put the master in a vice(as straight as you can get it), hook up your two lines, fill with fluid, and use some sort of rod(wooden dowel, anything like this) and pump the master.
You'll want to pinch the lines shut as you push the rod in, let the rod come out normally, un-pinch the lines(to let the fluid drain a bit, and repeat.
You're looking for bubbles that float to the surface of the fluid inside the reservoir. After the bubbles stop(or barely come anymore), stop. Fill to the Full line and remove the lines, quickly inserting the caps that you were provided. If at any time the master runs out of fluid, you'll need to redo the whole bleed.
Now just install master into the car, again, being as quick as you can with the line installs, so the master doesn't run dry.
Basically you just put the master in a vice(as straight as you can get it), hook up your two lines, fill with fluid, and use some sort of rod(wooden dowel, anything like this) and pump the master.
You'll want to pinch the lines shut as you push the rod in, let the rod come out normally, un-pinch the lines(to let the fluid drain a bit, and repeat.
You're looking for bubbles that float to the surface of the fluid inside the reservoir. After the bubbles stop(or barely come anymore), stop. Fill to the Full line and remove the lines, quickly inserting the caps that you were provided. If at any time the master runs out of fluid, you'll need to redo the whole bleed.
Now just install master into the car, again, being as quick as you can with the line installs, so the master doesn't run dry.
Last edited by mattdel; 08-16-2010 at 11:25 AM.
#6
I clamp it in a vise lightly and fill cylinder resevoir up then push with a screwdriver the plunger from the back and on the return stroke I cover the holes with my fingers as to not draw in air, just did one on friday, works like a charm, i Keep pushing the plunger in until it freely squirts out fluid, you can loop the kit lines into the resevoir to make it easier if the MC came with a bleed kit
#7
I don't bench bleed the MC. If I do, I make a big mess trying to get it installed without spilling the fluid.
Install the MC and other new parts, and make all the new lines you need to make. When you install the new lines into the MC, don't tighten them much, just snug them up.
Then remove the lines from the MC, and install the MC kit. I just make loops out of brake line, rather than use the cheap kit that sometimes comes with the new MC. The fittings need to be pretty snug, so they don't suck air.
Now bleed the MC until no air bubbles are seen. One at a time, remove the loops from the MC, and install the proper fittings. Since they've been fit before, they should go right in. You'll lose a little fluid, but not much. So have some paper towels ready to absorb it.
Then you just bleed the system like you normally would.
Install the MC and other new parts, and make all the new lines you need to make. When you install the new lines into the MC, don't tighten them much, just snug them up.
Then remove the lines from the MC, and install the MC kit. I just make loops out of brake line, rather than use the cheap kit that sometimes comes with the new MC. The fittings need to be pretty snug, so they don't suck air.
Now bleed the MC until no air bubbles are seen. One at a time, remove the loops from the MC, and install the proper fittings. Since they've been fit before, they should go right in. You'll lose a little fluid, but not much. So have some paper towels ready to absorb it.
Then you just bleed the system like you normally would.
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