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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 11-08-2010, 12:12 AM   #11
02WhiteGTVert
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Originally Posted by mjr46 View Post
I suspected as such which is why I posted what I did.........anyway, be careful sticking higher rated fuses in a circuit with a lower rating, could melt wires......as for the prob, get a wiring diagram of that circuit and see what consumers are on that circuit, if the fuel pump is the only consumer on that circuit, it's a good possibility that the windings in the pump have high resistance and following EL-101 basics about electricity, high resistance = current draw up = pop fuses, as long as there are no chaffed wiring on the b+ sise of the circuit the cause is often high resistance in either wiring, connections or the consumer such as the FP. OFTEN TIMES WHAT we uses to verify the prob is a low amp probe around the B+ WIRE ON THE FP CIRCUIT to map the actual current draw, or to get even more technical we perform a current ramp test with a labscope working in conjunction with a low amp probe, and based on the cleanliness of the signal that is output to the labscope it can be easily verified, but in your case I'm sure you don't have such, so grab a diagram and see what load consumers are on that circuit, if it's just the fp than throw a dart and replace it, most likely you'll solve the issue
I get what you're sayin..i went and backtracked my steps as to when this issue started..it was when i hooked up heater core back up and i had to move some wiring out of the way to get to it..when i started looking over everything i found a wire with a crimp connector the was laying on metal..dunno if it's related by i moved it and taped it off..im searching for some diagrams now
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:28 AM   #12
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I'm not narrowing it to the fuel pump, since the pump fuse isn't blowing, the fan fuse isn't blowing, just the CCRM as a whole. here's the diagram i've found so far on sbftech.


Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:41 AM   #13
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so which fuse on the diagram is blowing ..eec fuse??
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Old 11-08-2010, 06:55 AM   #14
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so which fuse on the diagram is blowing ..eec fuse??
yep..
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:00 AM   #15
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I still say you should add a ground to the block.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:08 AM   #16
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feel free to add a ground as adder states but if this prob all started when you moved wires, you'll need to trace the red and yellow wire to what they feed red = pcm relay yellow is supply power to relay but has a bridge for another circuit, so you'll need the other half of this diagram to see where pin 11 and 14 go which are labled at the far left where all wires are in a series.
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Old 11-08-2010, 08:21 AM   #17
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Reman CCRM Advance $91.47 in June this year includes tax(NC). Called relay control module 1 year warranty. Part # RCM12M sku 20971446 Bubba
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Old 11-10-2010, 12:37 PM   #18
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Carefully checked all the wiring close to the heater core...electrical taped all exposed wiring (found one that was touching another)...since that it's been fine...hopefully that was the only issue with it..
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:30 PM   #19
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did a KOEO test and got 117 (ECT sensor is/was low or grounded)

and 542 (Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits )
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:57 PM   #20
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got 117 and 998 (hard fault present, ECU operating in failure mode) on the KOER test...didn't show the 542 on the KOER....
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Old 11-10-2010, 01:57 PM
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