02WhiteGTVert

I've had my Cobra back on the road for two days now. Before the end of my shift this morning I went out to the car and started it to defrost the ice off the windshield. it cranked up fine, no issues. I let it idle for approx. 20 mins. I get in the car and as i'm leaving my work parking lot it hesitates very roughly. I press in the clutch and let it idle down then take off fine. Then, approx a block down the road it does it again and dies. I attempt to start it again with no luck, so i listen for the fuel pump to prime and it doesn't. Luckily, i was uphill from my workplace so i let it roll back to the parking lot and check a few connections and whatnot. Yesterday, i noticed my electric fan was coming on and staying on in ~30 degree weather. I thought maybe Coolant Temp Sensor so i ordered a new one. but then this happens. could this be a sign of the CCRM going bad? i was so tired from working a 13 hour shift that i just jumped in a work vehicle and drove it home instead of messing with it (not to mention it's freezing outside). Any ideas? i'll diagnose more when i go into work tonight....

AdderMk2

if the CCRM was bad, you wouldnt get fan functions at all.

Check the grounds for your ECM, especially the two on the radiator support near the battery.

Also, dumb question. but did you remember to put the ground strap back on the drivers side of the block, that runs from the frame to the engine mount, when you swapped the engine?

Bubba 95SN

Any position that includes the defrost will turn on the a/c to clear winshield quickly. a/c on....the cooling fan is on. Check for fuel pressure, spark, then on to EEC1V tests.

02WhiteGTVert

thanks adder, i've read some people say that some functions with still work (e.g. fuel pump goes out, but fan still works). bubba, i guess i should've been more clear, the fan will come on and stay on after a cold start in 30 degree whether, even if the climate controls are completely off. i'm back at work and trying to diagnose the problem. ran a jumper to the inertia switch, still nothing.

02WhiteGTVert

i did not have a ground strap that went to my motor mount. the only one i have went to the timing cover. maybe whoever pulled the motor last time took it off and didn't put it back on???

02WhiteGTVert

FIXED!!!!!! I was close. it was the CCRM fuse in the box. the 20AMP was blown,swapped it with another one to test an the FP came right on. thanks anyways!

mjr46

I wouldn't call it fixed so quick my friend...what blows a fuse?? = excessive current draw, or short to b+ if it works and doesn't blow immidiately then you have a circuit that is drawing to much current and if that 20 amp fuse is for the fp relay in the ccrm, it may have a pump going on the out.........a quick circuit diagram check would be in order if it were mine, fuses don't just blow, there is a cause, but if your satisfied at stopping short of the cause.....best of wishes and have AAA NUMBER HANDY

02WhiteGTVert

Right, i replaced it with a 20AMP for the CCRM so it wouldn't fry it untill i have daylight to mess with it. I only live about a mile from my work and i'm off tomorrow, just need some daylight to really check everything. I stuck the 40AMP from the rear window defrost in the fuel pump slot for the time being. I'd rather replace the fuel pump then try to hunt down a CCRM.

02WhiteGTVert

Ok, not fixed, it idles and revs fine, but when i try to drive it...fuse blows...wtf....

mjr46

I suspected as such which is why I posted what I did.........anyway, be careful sticking higher rated fuses in a circuit with a lower rating, could melt wires......as for the prob, get a wiring diagram of that circuit and see what consumers are on that circuit, if the fuel pump is the only consumer on that circuit, it's a good possibility that the windings in the pump have high resistance and following EL-101 basics about electricity, high resistance = current draw up = pop fuses, as long as there are no chaffed wiring on the b+ sise of the circuit the cause is often high resistance in either wiring, connections or the consumer such as the FP. OFTEN TIMES WHAT we uses to verify the prob is a low amp probe around the B+ WIRE ON THE FP CIRCUIT to map the actual current draw, or to get even more technical we perform a current ramp test with a labscope working in conjunction with a low amp probe, and based on the cleanliness of the signal that is output to the labscope it can be easily verified, but in your case I'm sure you don't have such, so grab a diagram and see what load consumers are on that circuit, if it's just the fp than throw a dart and replace it, most likely you'll solve the issue