5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
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if you have stock pistons , you'd be wise to notch the pistons or else if you retard or advance the cam timing to avoid ptv then performance could suffer if the valve events are not at the optimal setting.
Originally Posted by dudegirl
Be polite and cordial when you talk to them, as pissing off the guys that can help you is seldom a good idea.
Advancing and retarding the cam has been used to fine tune an engine for many years. That's why so many gear sets have differant slots for the key way.
Advancing the cam will move the power band down a little. And retarding the cam will move the power band up a little. Usually about 300-400 rpm's; so it won't make a huge differance. You might see a small gain or loss in total power, but it's so small that you'de need a dyno to see it.
You should use a crank gear with multiple slots for accuracy. If you simply slip the chain one tooth on the crank gear, you could get a variable amount of timing change. By looking at the numbers you posted, you advanced your timing by 2*. That's not a problem, and it seemed to work out for you. Since it measures out well, I would not change it. Run it as is and it will be fine.
im pretty sure you have the cam timing mixed up .bob
isnt it retard the cam to increase the power band rpm range?
beat me to it...
retarding the cam moves the events later into the process IE: a larger cam makes more power up top due to the increase in piston/air speed filling up the cylinders more completely, also the reason they dont do so well down low.
granted with a stock cam it will be a very small difference, but still worth something...
and the OP was talking about advancing the cam by 1 tooth on the gears, not using the adjustable keyways that offer the advance/retard features...
1 tooth = WAYYYYYYYY more than even 8*...
1996 GTS 5spd 3060lbs
PI heads, COMP 270's, LT's, OR X, Bassani, 9.5lb aluminum flywheel, SPEC stg4 clutch, 4.10's, MGW, FRPP DS, 30#, 255lph, BBK 78mm TB, K&N, Weld fat n' skinnies, BFG DR's, power nothing, cage, 5 pts, Corbeau's, and some other stuff
2 years ago i bought a Z303 cam. I installed it my first engine to 5.0 in 1994.
Then I checked the clearance, the piston-valve (0.050 ")
modifications, AFR 185cc heads (58cc), Edelbrock RPMII, 1.6 rockers, exhaust FlowMaster 2x 2.5 ", Mac shorty 1.5 / 8 headers .......
On the dyno result;
Horspower, 335 HP @ 5,791 rpm on the flywheel.
Torque, 459NM (340 lb-ft) @ 4205 rpm
max rpm 6778
the engine worked very well, just 5000 rpm up oil leak from dipstick tube.
Unfortunately, the pistons were cracked between the first and second ring, but the engine run until the endI killed him with high rpm
Now I have a 5.0 engine 302 of 1988 lx (forged pistons), unfortunately, cutting the pistons are smaller than those of my previous engine.
Go back 2 *, or undercut the piston?
dynograph look looks good?
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