david.kinter

Okay, so this car wasn't running very well when I got it. I've done a lot of work on it in my spare time in the past 3 weeks but it's still not right yet. Here's my list of replacements this far:

BBK equal-length shorty headers, Pypes "The Beast" exhaust kit w/ O/R X-pipe and Violator mufflers, GT-40 intake, CAI, new fuel tank/filter, new plug wires, new plugs, new battery and battery cables, and new starter solenoid.

I don't know what kind of cam it's got in it. The kid I bought it from took it to the shop and has no idea what they put in.

Some things that may be symptoms: I experience battery drain. I see a 3G conversion coming on in the near future. It runs hot, too hot. Will replace the radiator and electric fan soon also.

So, what sounds amiss to you?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1vtY_UFbLo

19stang88

Pressure test the cooling system, check to see if it holds any pressure. check the t stat, water pump, check if the fan clutch. Flush the coolant system and get all the air from the cooling system. If you're battery is getting drained, check for shorts, a good DVOM will be handy

whiteNblack95

is there any kind of a vacuum leak that you can hear? my buddy had a small vacuum leak coming from his egr valve, once he found out what it was and tightened it up, it ran great. also, it could have been a half a$$ install on the cam. do you know your fuel pressure?

david.kinter

So, I ran KOEO and KOER. I attempted to run a cylinder balance test also, which failed to start. Hmm, maybe not detecting it was at WOT? I don't know. I ran the codes for KOEO and KOER:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PSjE0onjlw

I came out with codes:
KOEO 2-51-22-23-24-34-84
KOER 1-98-51

22 23 and 24 identify MAP/BP sensor, MAF sensor, and the TPS sensor. I measured the TPS sensor and could only get .35V off of it. Got a new one today and set it to .96V. She runs a little better but still idles a bit rough and sounds a bit clanky. Sprayed the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner. I ran out of light but tomorrow I plan on checking the IAC and resetting my base idle and codes. Then I'll run KOEO and KOER again and attempt to run cylinder balance self test.

Opinions?

enix187

make sure your tfi ohms out correctly, whats your timing set at and did you pull the pill to set it? What shape is the cap/rotor in, I had a rotor that would wiggle on the shat and the car ran terrible but would clear up and run right occasionally

btw along the lines of overheating how is that belt routed, it doesn't really look right and it could be spinning the water pump the wrong way.

david.kinter

Okay! Let me see how well I can answer your questions. First off, the distributor cap and rotor look OK. They do have a little bit of wear on the posts on the underside of the distributor cap and a bit of wear toward the end of the rotor button. I don't think this is enough wear to cause an issue. Furthermore, I haven't checked/redone timing yet as I don't have a timing light. It'll be something I do when I get back from deploy. I leave in 3 days and will be gone for 6 months. Just trying to iron out as many issues I can.

I'll have to look up how to check the TFI module and here is a picture of my belt setup. And yes, it's an odd setup. None that I've seen before.

http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMAG0099.jpg

enix187

I would say that you have it advanced too far, you can alway's play the timing by ear. if by any chance you're bored over the next couple days i would just go out and turn the distributor counter-clockwise a tiny bit, around a .25 of an inch and see how it reacts

Madman_DSM

Could also be a rod knock. If the sound goes up and down with RPMs. But I'm new to these cars so take it with a grain of salt.

If it is, don't drive the car.

david.kinter

So heres an update: I've replaced the TPS, IAC, and cleaned the MAF with cleaner. Then I did a base idle reset as per instruction. I ran KOEO and KOER again and these are the codes that are coming up:

KOEO
34- PFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
51- ECT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.
84- EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure.

KOER-
51- Same as above.
98- Hard fault present.

I tried running a cylinder balance self test again after I replaced the sensors and still no good. Self test fails to start. Will play with the timing as soon as I can. Honestly, I think they put a really radical cam in this thing because of the lope it's got. Now that the sensors have been replaced/cleaned and the idle set it runs a lot better and doesn't try to die on me.

I won't be able to check on the timing until I get back from deploy in six months. I leave in 2 days. I'll also remove the valve covers and check the push rod length to see if I have a problem there.

Still, I have the codes above to resolve. Any opinions are appreciated.

And thank all of you for your help.

Jayson95GT

as far as the battery drain goes, if you have had the battery tested and it was ok then the next thing to check would be the alternator. If is charging around 13.8-14.5 volts or so then your next thing to check would be parasitic draw.

as far as running rough, it would be nice to know what kind of fuel pressure you have and what your timing is set at. Really though you need to find out what cam is in that thing cuz it almost sounds like part of the issue is too big of a cam based on the way it sounded in the recording... Has it ever ran ok since the shop put that cam in it, did the guy you bought it from say?