need advise
#1
need advise
My car was running fine when I dropped it off at the mechanic, I needed to change my transmission and lower intake gasket. I had a trick flow r series intake that I wanted to install since they where going to remove the one on the car. When i picked up the car it was running so bad. I asked him why it was doing that and he said well we just changed the intake maybe you need to do what ever u do. So I figured I needed to tune it so I drove it straight to the dynotune. They checked the car and told me that itneeds a rebuild cause on the driver side 2-8 pistons have low compression. Well the question is it possible that the car would run good and with a change of an intake wear out the pistons ring or can it be possible that when they finished the car they test drove it and blow out a head gasket. Im thinking if its that it didn't have good compression it would of run bad with the intake before. Is there any way to check if its the head gasket or the rings without taking it apart.
#3
Its not a stock 302, .30 over, x542 cam, edelbrock heads, vortech supercharge, 5 speed and the trick flow intake but I want to know if there's a way to check it before opening the motor cause I'm thinking that its only the head gaskets
#4
Yep I think you're right odds are they blew the head gaskets between the cylinders (did the same on my 5.0 between cylinders 5-8) all blown on the inside of the gasket between the cylinders. Cylinder 6/7 was the worst. Kenne Bell lifted the drivers head off the block.
A little rule of thumb I learned from several different old time mechanics; whenever you are running F/I never run the car at WOT for at least 500-1000 after the rebuild. The gaskets need time to seat to their components, if not you will pop gaskets left and right. If you can prove the shop did it, then they need to fix the gaskets free of charge.
Only sure fire way is to take it apart. A compression test will help locate the areas needing the most attention but odds are they blew a head gasket or both gaskets.
Oh one other thing I was told by a few good mechanics. I don't know if you're using them now, but with F/I it would be a good idea to run stud bolts with F/I intended gaskets. The gaskets each are over $100, I don't remember their exact price but I know the guy said the stud bolts with those gaskets are the best thing you can do on a Ford 5.0 with aluminum heads (which are prone to warping under certain conditions with super chargers). You will also need to get your heads remilled before you reinstall them. If not you may just blow another gasket.
A little rule of thumb I learned from several different old time mechanics; whenever you are running F/I never run the car at WOT for at least 500-1000 after the rebuild. The gaskets need time to seat to their components, if not you will pop gaskets left and right. If you can prove the shop did it, then they need to fix the gaskets free of charge.
Only sure fire way is to take it apart. A compression test will help locate the areas needing the most attention but odds are they blew a head gasket or both gaskets.
Oh one other thing I was told by a few good mechanics. I don't know if you're using them now, but with F/I it would be a good idea to run stud bolts with F/I intended gaskets. The gaskets each are over $100, I don't remember their exact price but I know the guy said the stud bolts with those gaskets are the best thing you can do on a Ford 5.0 with aluminum heads (which are prone to warping under certain conditions with super chargers). You will also need to get your heads remilled before you reinstall them. If not you may just blow another gasket.
Last edited by jthorn9; 03-09-2011 at 08:32 PM.
#6
they can blow and not have water come in. also what cly. are low? 2 and 8 are not on the same side on the engine on a Ford. How low are they? I really sounds like you need to find another mechanic.
#7
Well its the driver side, the first and last one but I'm Going to take it apart myself this week. Its my first time opening an engine but would rather spend my money on parts then on mechanics so im going to need alot of advise hopefully you'll can help. First I need to buy a rebuild book and the right one if anybody know a web that I can get one from let me know
#8
I would not start tearing stuff apart until I did another compression test.As far as you doing it yourself good for you, take your time and pay attention to detail. make sure all gasket surfaces are very clean, clean all head/main bolts holes with a tap to make sure you get proper torques and use oil when torquing on the threads.
#9
Ok I finally got a compression tester. On the passenger side from front to back they r 173-170-170-167 and on the driver side from front to back they r 113-150-163-70 what do u all think it is the piston rings or the head gasket.
#10
what do u all think it is the piston rings or the head gasket.[/QUOTE]
You can add a squirt of oil to the low cylinder and retest, if the compression increses likely the piston rings or cracked piston. If it stays the same, probably a head gasket or valve. Be careful, use only a small amount of oil, it is not compressionable, not sure that is a word. Excess oil could lock up your engine or break something.
You can add a squirt of oil to the low cylinder and retest, if the compression increses likely the piston rings or cracked piston. If it stays the same, probably a head gasket or valve. Be careful, use only a small amount of oil, it is not compressionable, not sure that is a word. Excess oil could lock up your engine or break something.