vega

Ok here is the deal i am striping down a 1983 mustang that has a rebuilt Carbed 1985 3.8L V6 from a LTD in it now it is going to get a 5.0 V8.

What is the cheapest way to get 330hp out of that engine webpages products give for i am in need FAST.

I also need suspension tips i am looking for it to hook up decent (like it will happen :screwy: ) in the winter (snow and ice), great on the drag strip and to handle REALLY good on the autocross track. What should I use? Websites products i also need this as soon as possible.

Lastly i need to know what is the best automatic transmition i should need for this kind of power for the cheapest amount in money.

The goal is to have a 12second stang for the cheapest amount of money the started car is 1200 dollars it has no rust and is black in color. It is not the GT although it has the GT 4 lug rims as of now.

I just bought the car a day ago and it need to make a bet i have made against a ricer so i need the info QUICK - for all the american muscle fans help a guy out THANX for all the help any can give (i am not bashing imports but i am bashing ricers. You know that guy with a ridculously big wing NA 4cyl motor but a car that weighs 2000 pounds - although so will mine after i am done but I am using a V8 so HA!).

Quik

sorry but your car isnt going to weigh in at 2000lbs. thats a hard thing to hit. it will cost way to much money so i wouldnt even try it. i will tell you this fast and cheap arent in teh same sentence. so configure that it will cost more then your budget if you dont have an opening in your budget then i wouldnt consisder doing that build up

SilentNoise

When you look for a 5.0L, look for one of the later 5.0Ls with the hydraulic roller blocks, but that means EFI, which means you'll need to find a computer as well.
- Heads
- Intake
- Dual exhaust (obviously)
- Nothing less than 3.73 gears, but don't fear the gear! Consider 4.10s if you want to accelerate even faster, but don't waste your time on a 7.5 axle - look into an 8.8 pretty quick.
- Don't forget about subframes! You don't need the car turning into a pretzel after all your hard work.
- If you go EFI, cold air intake, larger MAF.... that kind of stuff.

For a car that handles the strip and street well, consider this for suspension maybe:
- H&R Super Sport Srings (lowers the car roughly 1.5")
- Struts & shocks can be found by a number of good companies, but as I found with my '83, you'll be limited because of your spindles, so you might consider a spindle upgrade to get the setup you want. (I can go into more detail with that later if you want.)
- If you want some killer traction, you can't beat the Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials, but that 7.5 rear end definitely will not last long with these and some hard launches.... nevermind if you add gears to that. These are street legal, but take it easy in the rain.
- For added weigh loss, you might consider removing the front sway bar, but then the car will handle like a tractor.

Ultimatly you'll never see the car get down around the 2000 lbs. I think the door sticker on my '83 GT hatchback says something like 3200 lbs, so for me to lose 1000 lbs is going to take a lot of bodywork, a lot of fibreglass pieces and most of all, a lot of coin.

vega

OK first of all i am siting here with a production book of ford. so here we go.
----------------------wght price prod
79' ford mustang
cpe 2d--------------2,471 4,494 156,666
htchbk cpe 3d------2,491 4,828 120,535
Ghia cpe 2d--------2,579 5,064 56,351
Ghia htchbk cpe 3d-2,588 5,216 36,384

Engines of 79' for the mustang
L4 140ci 88bhp
L4T 140ci 140bhp
V6 170ci 109bhp
L6 200ci 91bhp (they had this late in that year)
V8 302ci 140bhp

-------------------------wght price prod
80' Ford Mustang
cpe 2d------------------2,514 5,338 128,893
htchbk cpe 3d----------2,548 5,616 98,497
Ghia cpe 2d-------------2,582 5,823 23,647
Ghia htchbk cpe 3d----2,606 5,935 20,285

engines for 80' mustang
L4 140ci 88bhp
L4T 140ci 140bhp
L6 200ci 91bhp
V8 255ci 118bhp

--------------------------------------
My point in all this is that no way in all that is holy are you correct that your car weighs 3,200 pounds well- if you have a convertable maybe but otherwise ...no. Also i am planning on using an aluminum block to save weight - these are known to be front heavy anyhow. And i KNOW that this is not going to be cheap i asked about the CHEAPEST the guy i will be racing has spent 15 grand on his car JUST to get the engine and suspension setup so the engine can sit in their STOCK. he took a rb26dett skyline motor out of a gtr and dropped the damn thing in a 240sx which has the same stock race weight as i have given WITH A 4CYL. Now i also know that you can drop about 500 pounds off of anycar for the most part. AND i plan on NOT using fuel injection a well tuned carb is good to me. And i am considering throgh a t4/t3 turbo setup on the 5.0 there are turbo headers and what not and that should get me BIG power for cheap if i look for used parts and i machine the block and intenals correct. i just want to know what the best heads are who makes them the same for the -crank roller rockers- solid lifters- ect. then the same idea for the suspension who makes the best what for not for the cheapest or the best price for what i am looking at doing - i am also considering useing cleveland head and boring this out to a 351 and stroke it out.

Ok now that you all have more info on what is going on what can you tell me that i don't know whihc i assume is alot. i have more experience in GM then i do ford BUT the mustang is increadable light and has alot of potential so i am "switching to the other side of the nail" (thumb wars). Thanx for your help as of now!

SilentNoise

Trick Flow Twisted Wedges are good heads, but a set of AFR heads or Brodix heads will kill the Trick Flows.

As for weight, my car's got T-tops, so there is some extra weight involved, but I could swear that was number posted on my door tag. I've never actually had the car weighed though.
Either way, I still don't see it dropping to 2000 without a bunch of work

vega

How does this setup for the engine sound to you then?
Brodix aluminum heads (i have not yet chose them)
edelbrock performer rpm aluminum intake
Jegs and summit for mic. aluminum parts like a water pump ect.
a 600 vacum holly or street avenger carb for MPG (no double pump)
a 780 or 790 vacum secondary from holly or street avenger (for the track)

and MAYBE a a 327 stroker kit
a 6 point roll cage

now i am not too sure with the transmition - from my understanding ford automatics dwindle alot of power away so maybe a a built up C4 tranny (which i would like to know how much that would run me (remember i know about GM stuff not ford)

Or i could use a manual- i am not used to a stick although i could get used to it i am still young enough to get better at it. I have just driven auto all my life- i CAN stick but not that great in comparison to someone with more experience. So i cam curious if there is a six speed tranny out there i could use? if so should i just stick with the 5 speed for how cheap? Now for the clutch if i go stick what clutch should i use for a 12 second daily/drag strip/ road race car?

I still have got no answer about suspension yet. I don't have big knowledge on that so HELP PLEASE.

99saleen351r

Dude the lightest stangs are barely 3,000 pounds all stripped out...THERE IS NO WAY IT WILL EVER WEIGH 2,000....MY friend has a complete tube chassis stang and it weighs 2900 pounds with everything....Your going to have to spend atleast 6 grand to get a good motor and tranny and them a boatload on suspension.There is no such suspension that will handle great and launch great ...it just doesnt happen!Most stangs in the street class at the track weigh over 3300 pounds but some do weigh 3,000 but they are never much lighter.The weight your looking at must be what they can carry not what they weigh.Good luck man your in for some serious spending
They do have a 6 speed its a T56 but they are expensive...And for suspension look into a tubular K frame and a arms with 90/10 struts and 90/10 rear shocks but by no means is it going to be good on the street or road race...You can not have both its impossible

Quik

2800lbs is an easy figure to hit.

second your not going to run 90/10s in the rear

92hatchLX

So now it seems like you are at a fork in the road and you need to make a decision, do you want it more for a road racer or a car that can tear it up in the 1320?

dc_mann8

yeah 2900 is not as light at a mustang will go, but 2000 is way off. 2800 is pretty easy. strip most interior, some aluminum parts and there u go, 28xx pounds.