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Stretched Clutch Cable?

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Old 03-29-2011, 08:30 AM
  #11  
steiner_5000
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Im thinking it might have been a roller type maybe. Its been awhile since I looked at it but it came in the clutch kit that I bought so it should have been the right one. Is there a way I can tell for sure that the cable is bad. Like some way to test it out so I know if I need to look at something else.
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:02 AM
  #12  
stangfreak09
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i would have some one press the pedal for you and watch the fork and cable and look for your move ment on the fork to c if its moving and watch for bunching in your cable. thats the only way i know of.
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:26 PM
  #13  
.boB
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Originally Posted by steiner_5000
Im thinking it might have been a roller type maybe. Its been awhile since I looked at it but it came in the clutch kit that I bought so it should have been the right one. Is there a way I can tell for sure that the cable is bad. Like some way to test it out so I know if I need to look at something else.
There's really nothing wrong nwith the roller type pilot bearing. I don't know if there's a specific advantage to it, though. I use one, becuase it makes me feel better.

In any case, some stock ford crank shafts are not drilled deep enough for the roller bearing, and it sits up just a smidgen high. That puts pressure on the input shaft and bearing, and can cause hard shifting. Eventually, it will damage the trans.

Raise the tail of the trans a little bit, then loosen the four bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing and the two that hold the tail to the mount. If it's properly installed the trans should not move. If the front bearing is too tight, the trans will move back just a little bit; like 1-2 mm, not much at all.

If you're not sure, pull the trans out, and inspect the nose. You might see a witness mark on the tapered edge of the nose, just behind the part that fits into the bearing. The best thing to do is put some prussion blue machinists dye on the snout and put the trans back in. Run the engine a bit. Then pull the trans out again and look at the dye. Any marks on the beveled part means there's not enough clearance.

A lot of work now, I know. But could save you a lot of work and expense later.
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:01 AM
  #14  
steiner_5000
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So I just got done with the replacement of the cable,quadrant and put in a firewall adjuster and I still have the same problem!! I look in by the clutch fork and saw the clutch engaging so I know its working properly. Is there anything else I can do to figure out whats wrong before I have to tear the tranny out AGAIN. I could really use the help if there's anymore ideas.
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:59 PM
  #15  
88_5.0
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Here is a quick test you can do to see if it is in fact your cable that is out of adjustment. Have the car on level ground, put it in 1st, keep the clutch pedal to the floor and let off the brake pedal. If you start rolling forward with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, you need to re-adjust your cable again. If the car does not move, this rules out your clutch cable being out of adjustment.
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:13 AM
  #16  
TrimDrip
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I get someone to hold up on the pedal while I adjust mine
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:36 AM
  #17  
steiner_5000
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Im sorry to keep this thread alive but I just have to get this figured out. I have a few questions that I hope will give me some answers.

1. Could it be the wrong pilot bearing? The research I came up with basically showed that there is only two different bearings. The one was fairly smaller and doesn't seem as common as the other so maybe thats the right one?

2. Can the clutch fork go bad? I ask this because this is literally the only thing I haven't replaced. I put a new throwout bearing on it but if its bad would that make a difference?

3. Does the short throw shifter need to be adjusted? This might be a dumb question but I notice the shifter had some adjustment bolts on it so I assumed it would need to be. Its an older hurst shifter if that makes a difference.

Other then that Im really out of ideas. Its really starting to kill me with all the nice weather and seeing every one else out driving their mustangs and mines stuck in the garage so Im trying everything I can to get it back on the road. Thank you so much for any input.
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:12 PM
  #18  
.boB
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Originally Posted by .boB

Raise the tail of the trans a little bit, then loosen the four bolts that hold the trans to the bell housing and the two that hold the tail to the mount. If it's properly installed the trans should not move. If the front bearing is too tight, the trans will move back just a little bit; like 1-2 mm, not much at all.

If you're not sure, pull the trans out, and inspect the nose. You might see a witness mark on the tapered edge of the nose, just behind the part that fits into the bearing. The best thing to do is put some prussion blue machinists dye on the snout and put the trans back in. Run the engine a bit. Then pull the trans out again and look at the dye. Any marks on the beveled part means there's not enough clearance.

A lot of work now, I know. But could save you a lot of work and expense later.
Did you try this?
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