.boB

I'v tried a few differant seals. The best one I'v found so far is the FMS part. You can slide it in with your fingers - no pounding required. And I have never had a failure.

If you use a seal with a metal rim, there's a trick to it. Remove the rear cap, place a little silicone around the outside of the metal rim, install the seal, then install the cap. Don't forget to seal the cap to the block with silicone.

But, the real question is, why does yours keep failing? Too much crank end play? Damaged or cut sealing surface? Too much crank case pressure? The why is usually more important than the how.

nightmare90gt

yeah i dont know why so i am pulling the motor and redoing all gaskets cause i also have oil leak and i am putting a new cam in it. i also think i might have installed it wrong my plan this time is to pull the main cap and make sure its in the right place unless someone can tell me a better way

i didnt want to start another thread for this question but what type of solid lifter do i use to degree the cam

also whats the part number to the rms you used

.boB

I don't use a solid lifter for that. I attach the magnetic dial indicater base to the deck surface. I put a standard lifter in the holes, and use the dog bones and spider to hold it in place. The I put a push rod between the lifter and the dial indicater. The weight of the puish rod along with the resistance of the dial indicater is not nearly enough pressure to compress to lifter. I have a picture at home, I'll try to remember to post it tonight.

You can also put the dial indicater on the lifter valley, and put the indicater tip on the edge of a lifter. But I find that just a little more difficult to set up correctly and read. Just personal preferance.

The part number for the ford RMS for a 302 is M-6701-B302. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6701-B302/ I use M6701-B351 for my 351 Dart block.

nightmare90gt

so i just use one of my lifters that are already installed in the motor if i am reading it right

i am getting the cam checker from summit so i can do it with the heads off then i am going to check for ptv clearance with the clay trick

.boB

Yes, just use one of the lifters already installed. Here's a photo of how I do it:



As you're ordering parts from Summit, also get a set of checking springs. Or, you can usually find what you need at Ace Hardware. They're just some light duty springs you can use in place of the real springs to check for clearance.

Here's what they look like:


I like to use 8 springs, and clay all 4 pistons at the same time. Some people just check one cylinder and call it good. Checking all 8 cylinders is probably a waste of time - but it helps me sleep at night.

nightmare90gt

thanks for the help i was planing on getting this for my checking
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900132/
or should i just buy the kit and use it like you have it

.boB

That summit kit is pretty good. The alum fixtures allow you to bolt the indicater directly to the block, like through a head bolt hole.

I prefer a magnetic stand. It's easy to set it up to check just about anything on the engine besides the lifter bore. I can also use it to check wheel and brake run out, bump steer, axle straightnes, etc. It's also easy to find the exact TDC of the piston. just gives you more options and uses. And, it's cheaper - only $30.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900016-1/

Don't forget the degree wheel. Bigger is better. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1057/

nightmare90gt

yeah after i posted that i went on summit and found that one so i changed that on my cart and that was the degree wheel i was going with. thanks for all the help