Starting after warmup issue
#1
Starting after warmup issue
New Cam, Injectors, MAF, upper/lower intake + 1 3/4" spacer, EGR Valve, IAC, TFI(moved to cooler area), TPS, ECM. Installed bigger radiator and fan which forced me to move the radiator overflow to the battery location and the battery to the trunk. but I ran a ground to the front too and rewired all the fan wires away from the computer one.
When i start the car there is no problems, idles at 900rpm, can drive the car and shes a dream. Car warms up and i turn the car off, i try to trun it over again and get a 2500rpm spike then stall, sometimes she bounces between 900 and 2500 then stalls. If i add throttle i can keep her goin but she will keep reving. If i rev and drive imediatly its she will go but sometimes throughs a check engine light(MAF to high and too low) and will start reving every time i slow down. If i stop and let the car cool off, startup and run no problem again for a short period. I have checked all the grounds but notice that when Heater is on full blast, the power is impaced? new higher output alternator.
Any help would be a godsend, been working on this for 2 years after i blew the heads and started rebuild, Arrrg!
When i start the car there is no problems, idles at 900rpm, can drive the car and shes a dream. Car warms up and i turn the car off, i try to trun it over again and get a 2500rpm spike then stall, sometimes she bounces between 900 and 2500 then stalls. If i add throttle i can keep her goin but she will keep reving. If i rev and drive imediatly its she will go but sometimes throughs a check engine light(MAF to high and too low) and will start reving every time i slow down. If i stop and let the car cool off, startup and run no problem again for a short period. I have checked all the grounds but notice that when Heater is on full blast, the power is impaced? new higher output alternator.
Any help would be a godsend, been working on this for 2 years after i blew the heads and started rebuild, Arrrg!
#4
What cam did you install? How close to the fuel lines are the headers? You can try and confirm your vapor lock theory by using a fuel pressure gauge plugged into the shraeder valve on the fuel rail, duplicating the condition and look for a pressure drop. Vapor lock is very rare on fuel injection because its a recirculating system and will keep the fuel cooler. Unlike carbs which have the gas sitting in the lines and bowl waiting to be used.
#5
The cam is comp cams CL35-351-8. The fuel lines are about 6-8in away from the headers. I just got a new fuel pressure tester, timing light and heat tape from summit. Will check the fuel pressure when i get up there today. Im supprised of the overheating though because the upper intake is lifted with a large set of spacers and the car wasnt overheating before i changed my valve covers and put the spacer in. However the engine bay is flaming hot, I can feel it just standing there. The guages read fine for the engine but the engine bay gets real hot. I've been trying to keep the car a sleeper but think i need to get a cowl hood for sure now. Think the raising of the intake is reducing any air flow under the hood that may have been there. Ill let ya know how the fuel test goes tonight, Thanks all!
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Calizic
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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08-28-2015 01:46 PM