331 stroker build questions?
11-21-2011, 08:50 PM
#11
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
Stud mount.....
You think they are UPR? Basically what I am getting at is if they uppers have a polyurethane bushing on the body side then sell them and find a set that are adjustable and have a heim joint. It will allow the rear end to not bind up on launch. If not then just stick with new stock uppers.
You think they are UPR? Basically what I am getting at is if they uppers have a polyurethane bushing on the body side then sell them and find a set that are adjustable and have a heim joint. It will allow the rear end to not bind up on launch. If not then just stick with new stock uppers.
11-21-2011, 09:03 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 20
Stud mount.....
You think they are UPR? Basically what I am getting at is if they uppers have a polyurethane bushing on the body side then sell them and find a set that are adjustable and have a heim joint. It will allow the rear end to not bind up on launch. If not then just stick with new stock uppers.
You think they are UPR? Basically what I am getting at is if they uppers have a polyurethane bushing on the body side then sell them and find a set that are adjustable and have a heim joint. It will allow the rear end to not bind up on launch. If not then just stick with new stock uppers.
11-21-2011, 09:16 PM
#13
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
They won't give you a problem. Its just not the best setup using the stock suspension. Basically you won't know there is an issue. The UPR's are good control arms for the price but I personally won't use them. Just personal preferences...
11-21-2011, 09:25 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 20
Thanks for the heads up, and for the heads should I got with 1.6 or 1.7 rockers?
11-21-2011, 11:09 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 4,103
I'd use a kit from CHP, I've done a couple of them and I haven't any problems, they are also quick with shipping.
For heads I think I'd go with either Edelbrock performers or AFR 185's.
Id get the stud mount type heads.
Comp Cams has a line of stroker cams out there now if you want to stay hydraulic roller.....
For heads I think I'd go with either Edelbrock performers or AFR 185's.
Id get the stud mount type heads.
Comp Cams has a line of stroker cams out there now if you want to stay hydraulic roller.....
11-22-2011, 12:54 AM
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 20
I'd use a kit from CHP, I've done a couple of them and I haven't any problems, they are also quick with shipping.
For heads I think I'd go with either Edelbrock performers or AFR 185's.
Id get the stud mount type heads.
Comp Cams has a line of stroker cams out there now if you want to stay hydraulic roller.....
For heads I think I'd go with either Edelbrock performers or AFR 185's.
Id get the stud mount type heads.
Comp Cams has a line of stroker cams out there now if you want to stay hydraulic roller.....
11-22-2011, 08:42 AM
#18
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
11-24-2011, 03:08 PM
#19
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,788
Currently running both a 331 and a 347, I would go with the 347. But if you are dead set on the 331, it will not be a bad choice. I have the CHP rotating assembly in my 347. It's an excellent kit with all SCAT parts(save for the pistons). If you want a mild but strong street set-up, I would run the AFR 185's, Comp Cam XE274HR(or a custom of similar spec) and a ported cobra intake. My 347 with the above parts(save for an un-ported cobra) made 351rwhp/380trq w/600 miles on the shortblock. Numbers in sig are with a 35 shot.
