no oil press, temp or tach
12-22-2011, 12:23 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 272
no oil press, temp or tach
just noticed it but im not getting any oil pres, temp, and my tach isnt working. I replace the oil and temp sending units and still nothing, when i first start the car the tach jumps about 100 rpm and then just goes right back down to 0. any ideas. i know the wires form the oil and temp run into the same harness. where do they go from there. checked all my fuses. the speedo, volt and fuel gauge work fine.
12-24-2011, 07:24 AM
#2
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
just noticed it but im not getting any oil pres, temp, and my tach isnt working. I replace the oil and temp sending units and still nothing, when i first start the car the tach jumps about 100 rpm and then just goes right back down to 0. any ideas. i know the wires form the oil and temp run into the same harness. where do they go from there. checked all my fuses. the speedo, volt and fuel gauge work fine.
Yes and no. They start in different harness but do eventually end up in the same. The oil pressure is on the body harness and goes into the driver side firewall. The temp goes from the intake and runs across the firewall to behind the strut tower where it connects to the body harness then runs into the firewall to the cluster. Ground out the wires that attach to the sending units and see if they peak out the gauge. If so then its the units but you replaced those. if it doesn't then its the gauges or the wiring for them.
12-30-2011, 12:11 AM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 263
On the back of the instrument cluster there is a bunch of copper stripping which carries a 12v source to each of the gauges. Take a look at it and make sure it isn't ripped or cut somewhere keeping the power from reaching the gauges.
I had a problem with my oil pressure and fuel gauge not working. After a ton of searching I finally realized the copper stripping where the harness plugs in was cut so no power was getting to the gauges.
To fix it I just pulled back the plastic, lay a few strands of copper across to bridge the gap, and layed the plastic back down and used electric tape to seal up good.
It got the gauges to work again.
The only thing that leads me to think this might not be your problem is your tach isn't working. From what I saw, the tach is powered seperate from the oil/fuel gauges and it is unlikely you suddenly had two different rips to occur unless you recently pulled your cluster and did some work.
It sounds more like a ground issue but I could be wrong.
I had a problem with my oil pressure and fuel gauge not working. After a ton of searching I finally realized the copper stripping where the harness plugs in was cut so no power was getting to the gauges.
To fix it I just pulled back the plastic, lay a few strands of copper across to bridge the gap, and layed the plastic back down and used electric tape to seal up good.
It got the gauges to work again.
The only thing that leads me to think this might not be your problem is your tach isn't working. From what I saw, the tach is powered seperate from the oil/fuel gauges and it is unlikely you suddenly had two different rips to occur unless you recently pulled your cluster and did some work.
It sounds more like a ground issue but I could be wrong.
Last edited by stdyhand; 12-30-2011 at 12:13 AM.
12-30-2011, 05:18 AM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 272
ok, ill try all that stuff. I havent had the gauge cluster apart yet the only thing i have messed with is the radio. Put in a new cd player and two new speakers. didnt touch any wires behind the cluster though.
12-30-2011, 12:04 PM
#10
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 272
did continuity checks, i have continuity at the connection by the booster from the oil sender wire. when i tested it all the way through got continuity at pins 12 and 14. im currently pretty confused. lol. When i tested the water temp sender wire, i got continuity at pin 11. which is the tach feed. now im more confused. its a good thing i wired aftermarket gauges, lol
also checked for the 12v and im getting 12v at pin number 3, and pin 11 on the right plug.
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&s...0&tx=136&ty=82
also checked for the 12v and im getting 12v at pin number 3, and pin 11 on the right plug.
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&s...0&tx=136&ty=82
Last edited by adrnlnjnky700; 12-30-2011 at 01:22 PM.