Daphne915.0

As far as the heater core goes. Order OEM, if you want 10 years or more. Just my 2 cents. There is not really an advantage to aftermarket as far as the heater core goes.

Tony71502

Can you possibly think of a technological improvement on a heater core? It's the same thing as a radiator, copper tubes with fins. Air is blown over it and heated up. Get an OEM replacement.

ttocs

as for cheap I think they are only $20 or so, just takes a long time to get to it in the dash.

capri debris

I've removed/reinstalled and changed out several fox interiors over the years. The best advice I can give you is use dynamat and automotive grade sound deadener padding... liberally. This cuts down on the source of vibration... think of it as stopping the metal vibrations before they ever have a chance to vibrate any plastic parts in the car.

Remember this... anything loose in the car is a potential noise maker. If pieces are moving, they will rub and make noise. You have to go through and make sure ALL clips, tabs, screws, braces and any other fasteners are tight.

Places where two plastic pieces meet can be tricky. When I've identified an area with this problem, I've used the trick of building up the area with some silicone from behind and have also done what you've thought of which is use some thin foam tape on a roll to pad the area where they meet.

The area between the center console and dash is a common problem area. The main reason for it is a sagging dash... which can only be fixed by loosening all the dash mounts and having someone push up on it while they are re-tightened.

Many times the screws that hold the larger panels on are stripped out in the metal hole, this can be fixed by getting the next size up screw and replacing it/them. Sometimes these same screws can be the victim of being overtightened and the head has been pulled through the plastic... now you have to get a pan head with a washer to replace it.

Sometimes all the techniques I've gone over above still won't get rid of all the noises you have because the unibody is simply flexing too much from 20 years of fatigue and you'll have no choice but to get some subframe connectors to make it rigid again.

Hope this has helped.

Project 5.GO!

Hmm, that gave me a lot to think on. The subframes are already on, and back when I did that, I felt a pretty big difference, some of the miscellaneous unidentifiable creaks that were going on, also fixed the seat bolt that was torn out of the floorpan.

On the issue of dynamat... That crap is so rediculously expensive for what it is. Its pretty much just roofing paper with some adhesive on it. I can't bring myself to buy the stuff. Shame the bass-mobile crowd is willing to pay that much, otherwise the stuff would be more reasonably priced. I wonder how much they get for the stuff the car manufacturers use on newer cars...

See, foam tape, that's a great idea. That will kill the plastic friction rattles.

ITALIANO66669

gimme some info on this sagging dash.i got a crack on my dash by the driver ac vent and it looks as if my dash is either sagging or twisting?i have never pulled my dash but doesnt mean it has never been pulled.i know i hit bumps and its like my dash is reading to ripp off the firewall.my parking brake handle button rattles,my hurst shifter plate rattles,my hurst shift **** rattles,which they are about to be replaced.also my dash rattles and makes squeaky type noises.