N4aRush

also not all cars are equal in the sense that every car reacts differently to modifications.if you search on google "low voltage after 3g alternator install" about 30 or so different threads come up...they range from wrong wiring,to needing a overdrive pulley...but alot of people have "solved" there issue with that 1 1/8 pulley.
i didnt see anything wrong with my wires today.guess im gonna get the pulley and report back in a few weeks or so...

Tony71502

Think about what you said, then understand that mechanical objects and materials are not biological... All materials perform the same, all objects that are quality controlled perform the same. If mine works flawlessy with UDP and a 3g alt... and yours doesn't... it SHOULD work the same. Take a minute and absorb some common sense.

N4aRush

wow...absorb some common sense? all materials perform the same way? what if that material depends on something else?if a neighbor and i build the exact same house out of the same material...but he builds his on a sink hole..i dont think its gonna hold up the same.a 3g alt with very little strain is not gonna produce the same results as a 3g alt with greater strain at the same OR LESS rpm.
plus,i cant see them being extremely controlled...being ive read post where people have gone thru 3 alternators before getting a good one.and your big word SHOULD would be assuming that everything on our cars are the same.same idle.same pulley ratio.same electrical strain at idle.
so take a minute and "absorb" what i meant by not all cars react the same way... if someone upgraded there STOCK mustang alt due to lights dimming to a 3g...im sure it would be flawless.even with underdrives. now the next person tries it and has smaller pulleys.the strain of a 255lph fuel pump,big sound system and a different idle...the results PROBABLY wont be the same.All i was saying is that there are to many variables between cars to just say "mine worked,yours should"
- i have my alt wired the same as yours.my alt and battery have checked out good...both with load (multiple times).ive used a dvm on all my wires and fuses and found no shorts.my car at idle with no acc. on is fine.its at idle when im running head lights,or heater.i can run headlights and heater together and get 12.7volts..but i cant turn on my cd player.


but again...i appreciate any insight.and so far from what ive read the dummy that had the car before me put racing pulleys on it...because the average underdrive crank pulley is 5inches...mine is close to 4.5inches.

btw Tony71502 very nice car.love the rims.

Tony71502

Not to be a dick but cars aren't built on sink holes. What I'm saying is I have a ton of electronics running in my car... more than most people with 3g alternators... and despite their complaints they should not have the charging issues that they have. If they have charging issues without a bunch of aftermarket electronics and resort to an alternator upgrade, it is more than likely they have a faulty electronic system.

Thanks for the complement on the rims... They are knock-offs of the fox body Saleen rims. They are impossible to align at a regular shop. I could not find a place that had the equipment to align them near me.

I had to bust out the old tape measure and align it myself in my garage. At 120 mph it drives straight...

N4aRush

i know cars arent built on sink holes...just saying that no 2 cars will have the exact electrical strain or output... im gonna change my crank pulley tomorrow,i got a stock one today.if that doesnt work...where do you think i should check 1st?

-those are some nice knock offs.im still rocking 16 inch pony's.i need a front end alignment right now

g2_5point0

can you "full field" that alternator and check if the voltage still fluctuates? usually just requires sticking a screw driver into an opening in the back. it'll bypass the voltage regular and you should see max charging voltage (~ 14.5) with no accessories on. if it does fluctuate still, then you can root out a mechanical issues... correct me if im wrong

N4aRush

ill try that if i find more details...like where to stick the screw driver.today i installed a factory crank pulley and everything works fine.at idle with all acc. on including wipers i was still at 13.3v. with just headlights,heater, and radio i was 13.5v.nothing on at idle is 14.3 - 14.5 i checked it twice. i have no flucuation other than one time because my iacv is bad..my rpms dropped to like 300rpms for a second and my volts dropped to 12.2... but that was the only time...
several times today when i stopped at a light id make sure heater was full blast,headlights was on and jamming to tunes...it was a nice change!