yurizx6r

I have a 90 Mustang GT, and I already swapped out my stock calipers with the SVO calipers. I'm planning on leaving the rear drums alone, but the pedal is soft. I realize I need to upgrade the master cylinder, so I got one from a 94 Mustang GT. I was reading this site http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page11.html , and I got a little confused on the 3-2 port swap. Do I need anything else, or can I just swap as is? I've never done anything with a master cylinder or brake booster, so I'm just trying to get my facts straight before I rip it apart. Thank for any help!

Boss_Hotrod

Not sure about your set up but all you need to do is tee the two front caliper lines together and run them into the rear port of the master cylinder. Maximum motorsports makes a kit that has the lines to do this. The rear brake line plugs into the front port.

Tony71502

Do it the right way. One line should go to a T-block and from there go to each front caliper. The other line should go to the rear, and you should install an adjustable proportioning valve. Common place is the union near the passenger side hood hinge. When you change the brake parts the stock proportioning valve does not work properly.

yurizx6r

Hey guys thank you for the site. Nice! Ok, I understand that I need the adapter kit, but now I'm a little unclear of what to do about the proportioning valve... Since I am keeping the stock rear drums will the stock proportioning valve work? What should I look for? How do I test to see if the brake fluid is being properly proportioned? My friend who knows more about brakes is telling me "just swap out the master cylinder first, and if if it seems like the proportioning valve does not work THEN mess with it because it's a pain in the but and very technical." I have never even heard of a proportioning valve until now, so I really don't have a clue. What do you guys think? Thank you for the responses by the way!

Tony71502

Read this, and if you want more information explore the site a bit more.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...tioning-valves

You are converting from a 3 port master cylinder to a 2 port one. That adapter kit is kind of like a band aid. You can(should?) run the front brake line from your master cylinder to a T-block and then from the T-block to each front wheel. The other line from the master cylinder goes to an adjustable proportioning valve and you remove the stock proportioning valve completely. You now have control of your brake bias. You simply go to an empty parking lot and adjust the brake bias by testing your brakes. You do not want the rear wheels to have as much pressure as the front wheels because when you nose dive your rear wheels will lock up and your fronts are doing more work than they should. This also works the other way, you don't want your fronts doing all the work all the time and causing accelerated brake wear. Most adjustable valves have a recommended starting setting and you adjust according to your car's characteristics. It's all pretty simple, really.

yurizx6r

Thank you very much for the information guys. That helps a lot. I'm going to do it the right way and also order the proportioning valve.