88 orangepeel notch

Ok, just got done swapping to a 5 speed. Was very excited to take it for a spin, started right up, idled for 15 seconds then dies. Ok, started right back up and stays idling, great. Jumped in and backed out of garage, put in first and slowly let clutch out and motor starts studdering then dies. So I start with all the neutral safety switches, found jumping the one coming out of 5 speed helped idle right away. Take it out for a spin and runs great, what a difference a 5 speed makes, I'm all smiles. Drove for 20 minutes and stopped for gas, car dies pulling up to pump, this time it won't start. Let cool down for a couple minutes and then starts right up and I fly home. Now after 2 days I'm still baffled, when the motor warms up it starts studdering, bucking then dies, when it cools off, it always starts right back up. Pulled codes and got a couple emissions ones but also got a keoe 95, open circuit for fuel pump. Also got the same code in koer. Spent a whole day chasing that, I hate electrical problems. Can't find anything wrong, pump always primes with key, and starts when cold. One thing I did notice last time, when engine is idling and it starts studdering , motor will not rev, and I have alot of blue smoke out back. Is this something ignition related? Fuel pressure does not drop when studdering and my AFR does not go lean. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. I'm to the point of throwing things.

88 orangepeel notch

Update, just cleared memory and ran check for codes again. Here's what I got.
KOEO 81 secondary air diverted circuit failure
82 secondary air bypass circuit failure
95 fuel pump circuit open(pcm to motor ground)

In memory 95

KOER 21 engine coolant temperature (ect)out of self test range.
94 secondary air injection inoperative bank 2 driver side.
44 secondary air system inoperative bank 1 passenger side.
33 EGR valve opening not detected

Hope that helps, code 33 is new, never got that one before. Thanks

88 orangepeel notch

Still chasing this problem, noticed that after motor dies, 2 - 3 seconds later, fuel pump will prime again by itself. Now I'm back to thinking fuel issue. But if I start car up right away after it dies, it will idle good, but if I just touch throttle, it immediately studders for a couple seconds then die. Maybe swapping to carb isn't a bad idea. Getting tired of this.

NTGuru

And away we go...
at ford we replace both the TFI (Ignition Module) and PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) at the same time. usually if the engine runs the TFI module is "Usually Good" but can be affected by heat causing a stalling or no start problem when hot. yes the timing should be 10 egrees BTDC with the spout connector removed and the engine hot. also check the throttle body for buildup around the throttle plates Just check my posts for the proceedure to clean and reset the base idle. as for the oil leak, the rear lower corners (closest to the exhaust) are notorious for leaking on SBF motors. also the rear main seal. easy enough to replace whe doing the clutch. (and the oil pan gasket too) as far as the rear main seal it is under no pressure except crank case pressure so you should replace the pcv filter screen in the intake manifols and grommet and pcv valve. it the pcv hose is soft (they usually are) replace it as it will crush or collapse when the engine is running. i assume from the initial post that you replaced an automatic trans. if so the eec computer may be at fault or when the engine was tilted back 1 or more lines may have been damaged or cut.the TAB/TAD solenoids run off of the vac T on the firewall make sure that is not cracked or broken and all the lines are good. the stalling may be due to the egr valve too, if the sensor is bad, the ecu will keep trying to open the egr and then it goes lean and dies. also if the valve sticks (check with a vacume pump) and see if it pops. you should not hear it open if it pops replace it. if all elas fails, pm me and i will send my phone number.

88 orangepeel notch

Thanks alot for the reply, not sure you were responding to the right post after reading the beginning of yours, but thanks. So TFI or PIP could be the problem? Good to know but I will start with the vacuum lines behind motor first, your right when you say the connections and vacuum lines take a beating during the swap. Car ran great for years before this so I know it's something I did. Also when this thing starts studdering, its acting like it loses 2-3 cylinders, not just one. Thanks for the offer on your phone #, I may take you up on that after the holiday weekend.

88 orangepeel notch

Ok, just got back to the car and found a bad vacuum line off intake manifold to a vacuum switch with a 3 wire connecter coming off it mounted on firewall right above drivers side valve cover. Fixed hose, cleared codes and reran and got all the same as before, except this time the engine didn't stay running long enough during the koer test.

mattdel

The fuel pump re-priming after a stall is a very strange symptom. Sounds like the EEC power relay is resetting, causing the stall + prime. I'll do some wiring research and see if I maybe can pinpoint something related to a T5 swap.

Meanwhile you could attempt to verify my theory. Take the kick panel off so you can access the computer and it's harness. Find a way to securely measure the voltage of the red wire in pin 37 while you try and recreate a stall. This wire should be 12v+ any time the key is forward. If the voltage stutters at all while the key is on(during a stall?), something is up with the relay in question.

Edit: As far as any connection to the T5 swap, I can't find any particular reason unless maybe you messed with the grounds. The black/light green wire on the EEC power relay leads to the battery ground post eventually. Maybe it got harmed during the swap and is intermittently losing ground. This same ground is for the EEC(pin 40 & 60 black/light green(both can be responsible for producing error code 95)) and O2 sensors (disturbed during swap?) as well, so theres some extra things to look at for intermittent ground/possible short. Something like the O2 harness got squeezed inbetween the trans & engine by accident and split open the sheathing to a couple wires and is shorting out the shared ground that the EEC relay uses. Would explain the seemingly random stalls that appear to be encouraged by engine movement (wiggle test comes to mind here).

88 orangepeel notch

Ok, I will check pin 37 when I get home. Shouldn't be a problem recreating studdering, does it every time. Also, I didn't run #s yet, but my car is actually an 87 with a MA swap from previous owner, and this also seems like it was originally a 4cyl. I couldn't find fuel pump relay anywhere. Finally found it under dash mounted to a factory bracket with buzzer/ignition chimmer. This is turning into a can of worms. I will hold off on getting the TFI module. I'll try wiggling ignition switch connections while running, that's something I didn't try yet. Thanks for your time.

88 orangepeel notch

Also forgot to add something I tried, from some other post I read because my car is a MA swap, I need to run a jumper wire between pin 19 at computer to fuel pump relay(to pump) wire. Tried that but no help.

mattdel

Yeah, Pin 19 to the pink/black wire on the relay (which should be under the drivers seat). Correct. Make sure its the pink wire and not the red/black. The red wire goes to the inertia switch, it's the incoming signal from the EEC.

However I'm not convinced the FP relay or MA conversion had anything to do with this, simply because the fuel pump is re-priming after stalling. This can only happen if the power to the PCM (EEC) got reset, which logically can only happen if you have a faulty ignition switch (you'd see more symptoms such as dash/radio/heater dying as well), or the power feed to the EEC (EEC relay near the EEC) has lost its power or ground (black/light green) momentarily.