marlyman

Oh man...Ok so I finally put my aluminum GT40's on but no it wont run! i never pulled the distributor so timing should be fine all spark plugs in correct order Unless using the gt40s would give me a different firing order? Uhm The one part that sucks is these heads didnt have the holes machined for the pipe that bolts to the back of the heads an connects in with the smog pump vacuum lines so im kinda leaning towards that being the reason why it wont run..I rebuilt a stock 302 out of an 88 bored it out to 306 thru e303 cam cobra intake aluminum gt40 with 1.6 scorpion roller rockers 65mm thrttle body bbk adj fpr, bunch of pulley deletes im bout to go get some new spark plugs to hopefully fix the issue it sounds like a timing issue cuz it turns over fine even starts (barely) but then super struggles to then die any ideas? would the stupid smog bs be screwing me on this? im in an 88 lx(saleen clone)

mgmuscari

88 mustang = speed density, I dunno how well you're going to run with different heads on that computer. The pipe you're talking about is the EGR system. Just delete it if you're worried about it. I'm guessing you checked the piston to valve clearances when you threw it together, right?

The heads have nothing to do with your firing order. That's determined by the crankshaft, and the camshaft determines the ordering of the valve events (you need to match your crank to your cam of course). Modern 5.0's are all 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. An '88 crank with a letter cam should be fine I think. Facing the engine from the front of the car, the passenger bank is labeled 1-2-3-4 from front to back, and the driver bank is labeled 5-6-7-8 from front to back.

mjr46

smog deleted won't affect it, look for a vaccum leak = big one, possible intake gasket not seated or upper plenuim to lower leak.

mgmuscari

that sounds very plausible, since it's reading so lean at idle. a small vac leak at idle would have a pretty big impact on mixture given the computed fuel requirement, but once you open the throttle up a bit it wouldn't be as noticeable, since the ratio of extra air coming in from the leak would be much lower compared to the computed airflow from the VE tables.

nitrous_bob

you pulled the whole top end and still had the dizzy in it ? i find that hard to believe
and not even sure its possible

your probablky 180'd and im guessing you didnt do the work, cuz you would know that it WAS removed

im just saying

boeing747arowair

+1! distributor had to come out!

javila2468

I've been able to pull upper and lower intake with t-stat housing WITHOUT having to pull distributor. its do-able.

marlyman

!!! got it going! Yayuhhh!! : ) so it was a couple things...for one i needed new intake gasket, two had to readjust valves a bit think they were to tight, had to change spark plugs to proper 104's...i got a beast now : ) think i still need to adjust some timing / fuel pressure but all in all it works great finaly ! w00t w00t very happy an well worth the work i put into it..oh an as a response it is kind of difficult but totally possible to remove lower intake an keep dizzy in..done it many times. just clear ur work area of wires/vacuum lines an be careful works great. thanks for all the input! any ideas on horse that im generating with aluminum gt40s, 1.6 rockers, e303, 65mm throttle body, cold air intake headers, bbk adj fpr,smog/ac/power steering delete, undersdrive pulleys, msd coil, electric fans uhm think thats bout it any ideas like a ball park? over 300 i hope : )

javila2468

should be a little over 300. just need to make sure you get as much hp as possible to the pavement.

marlyman

So It's been running great, but i really havent noticed much of a hp gain! : ( an today after a 50 mile drive it started to want to die off unless i gave it gas to keep it goin...I did remove the egr pipe that should connect to the back of the heads, but now that i took that off i have some vaccuum lines that are just hangin around there..should i plug them? should i unplug the power to the actual vacuum solenoids, should i unplug the egr itself(vacuum an power)? I'm pretty sure the reason for dieing and the fact that i dont notice/feel much of a hp difference is because of timing? I had to set my idle set screw like all the way in to stay at a good 900-1000 rpm idle an think my tps needs adj maybe since im changing the throttle set screw...any ideas on where my horse is?? its gotta be there! : ) oh an my bbk adj fpr might have something to do wit it?