New Clutch Installed- Does this Look Okay?
07-20-2012, 05:54 PM
#12
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Well Im not sure what type of cable you have Im goin by the stock quadrent cable with the self adj. As the clutch wears the cable adjusts to allow it to keep grabing. By the time you need to install a new clutch there is so much slack in the cable that the new clutch wont disengage or will only partialy disengage. This will cause the pedal to feel soft. So in order for the clutch to fully disengage you apply more preload to the cable till you can feel the clutch start to disengage about half pedal or where ever you like it to. But I think the standard is around half way to the floor and youll feel it start to get stiffer. If you have a screw adj. on the fire wall or the fork itself you use that to take out more slack. If its a stock cable it should have a plastic quadrent gear with teeth on it like a ratchet 
You can see the little j-hook on this pic ( if the pic shows lol ) What i did with mine was push the pedal to the floor with my hand then push up on the j-hook and hold it while i released the pedal about 3 clicks This put my engagement about half pedal
You can see the little j-hook on this pic ( if the pic shows lol ) What i did with mine was push the pedal to the floor with my hand then push up on the j-hook and hold it while i released the pedal about 3 clicks This put my engagement about half pedal
07-20-2012, 05:55 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
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Well Im not sure what type of cable you have Im goin by the stock quadrent cable with the self adj. As the clutch wears the cable adjusts to allow it to keep grabing. By the time you need to install a new clutch there is so much slack in the cable that the new clutch wont disengage or will only partialy disengage. This will cause the pedal to feel soft. So in order for the clutch to fully disengage you apply more preload to the cable till you can feel the clutch start to disengage about half pedal or where ever you like it to. But I think the standard is around half way to the floor and youll feel it start to get stiffer. If you have a screw adj. on the fire wall or the fork itself you use that to take out more slack. If its a stock cable it should have a plastic quadrent gear with teeth on it like a ratchet You can see the little j-hook on this pic ( if the pic shows lol ) What i did with mine was push the pedal to the floor with my hand then push up on the j-hook and hold it while i released the pedal about 3 clicks This put my engagement about half pedal
You can see the little j-hook on this pic ( if the pic shows lol ) What i did with mine was push the pedal to the floor with my hand then push up on the j-hook and hold it while i released the pedal about 3 clicks This put my engagement about half pedal
07-20-2012, 06:18 PM
#15
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
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That gives back all the slack by the time the clutch wears out it is almost to the end of adjustment he needs to take that slack back out by preloading the clutch. Other wise it wont disengage enough to put it in gear. I had to push my pedal to the floor hold j-hook up to lock the ratchet then pull the pedal up about 3 clicks. This will put it at the start of adjustment for a new clutch.
07-20-2012, 06:58 PM
#16
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Do not preload the clutch! Doing so will cause premature wear which can be rapid. Yes you need to reset the stock quadrant if you have that. If you have an aftermarket adjustable setup pull the slack out of the cable and then use your firewall adjuster to get an 1/8" gap between the cable and the adjuster when pulled outward.
07-23-2012, 03:32 AM
#18
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Actually yes there is supposed to be a preload on the tob against the pressure plate fingers. Ford designed it this way . with out that preload the clutch will not disengage completly. The tob is designed to be in constant velocity. This applys to the T5 trans. Ive done more than a few t5 clutch installs. This is why your peddal feels soft.
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...n/viewall.html
Note the "The Clutch Cable and Quadrant " section of this article.
"Don stresses that aftermarket clutch cables must be adjusted upon installation to mimic the factory 20-pound preload of the throwout bearing against the pressure-plate's diaphragm spring. Failure to do so may result in less than complete clutch disengagement, with subsequent damage to synchronizers and other gearbox internals."
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...n/viewall.html
Note the "The Clutch Cable and Quadrant " section of this article.
"Don stresses that aftermarket clutch cables must be adjusted upon installation to mimic the factory 20-pound preload of the throwout bearing against the pressure-plate's diaphragm spring. Failure to do so may result in less than complete clutch disengagement, with subsequent damage to synchronizers and other gearbox internals."
07-23-2012, 01:52 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 109
Actually yes there is supposed to be a preload on the tob against the pressure plate fingers. Ford designed it this way . with out that preload the clutch will not disengage completly. The tob is designed to be in constant velocity. This applys to the T5 trans. Ive done more than a few t5 clutch installs. This is why your peddal feels soft.
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...n/viewall.html
Note the "The Clutch Cable and Quadrant " section of this article.
"Don stresses that aftermarket clutch cables must be adjusted upon installation to mimic the factory 20-pound preload of the throwout bearing against the pressure-plate's diaphragm spring. Failure to do so may result in less than complete clutch disengagement, with subsequent damage to synchronizers and other gearbox internals."
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...n/viewall.html
Note the "The Clutch Cable and Quadrant " section of this article.
"Don stresses that aftermarket clutch cables must be adjusted upon installation to mimic the factory 20-pound preload of the throwout bearing against the pressure-plate's diaphragm spring. Failure to do so may result in less than complete clutch disengagement, with subsequent damage to synchronizers and other gearbox internals."
Okay then how do i preload the clutch? All this info is useless if i don't know how to do it. I have a stock cable/quadrant setup. Very simply.. What do i do?...
That's all i need to know. Transmission's going back in today after i fxcked up the input shaft alignment multiple times.
07-23-2012, 02:52 PM
#20
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: ohio
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well basically I just start out with seeing if you can feel the clutch start to disengage at all. Start it up and see if you can easily put it in gear with the pedal depressed . If not ..shut the engine off get under the dash and push the pedal down with one hand and with the other Hold the quadrent in place and pull the pedal up 1 click at a time and check to see it you can feel the clutch. This usually takes about 3 clicks depending on how stretched out the cable is. Ive seen some pretty stretched out cables need to bring the pedal almost all the way back up while holding the locking gear under the dash. http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/clutcha.htm. This is a pretty good read about how the quadrent works and how to adjust it.