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Help with Gas mileage 95 Mustang GT

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Old 09-08-2012, 07:08 PM
  #11  
mattdel
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Seafoam it through the brake booster vacuum line, 5+ mpg if the chambers are dirty enough. Trans flush. Use my tech article entitled "Running rich?" to diagnose your ECT. Replace the o2's (Bosch) if you have spare $, they're recommended to be changed at 40k for a reason. Make sure alignment is good and repack the wheel bearings.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:16 PM
  #12  
TRexGAWD
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Originally Posted by Bubblehead
I have not had the car long enough to know exactly how its "supposed" to feel. The shop I have been working with has a Ford Master Certified Technician, and when I first bought the car, he tested the pressure and it was low. So, thats why I just redid the pump, filter, and the injector cleaning. Afterwards, the pressure was reading in spec. It does not seem to be "sluggish" when you punch it. It does idle just a little rough, but not too bad. I notice a little bit of hesitation/jerkiness when going very slow, 10-15 mph while driving thru the neighborhood. I am leaning towards the timing (I will check it soon) or maybe the 02 sensors. I know the timing should be set at ten. Could setting it too high cause the bad fuel consumption?
10 degrees initial is a good start.. You can actually go higher and optimize the spark more, but start at 10, take a spin and see how it drives.. You can keep bumping it a degree more and more until it feels just right or right until it pings and bump it down.. I kept mine at 14 when it was N/A, some keep there's at 16, some 12. Just depends.. And no, advancing will actually help with that if it's retarded too far but you can't advance too far either or it will cause detonation (unless you move up to a higher octane).. Timing that's retarded too far will act kind of sluggish and underpowered so you may end up with poorer economy because of how underpowered it is, remember you are still pumping the same amount of fuel but now it's not getting burnt up completely cause the spark is too late. You can actually feel the difference and it's a free upgrade pretty much to advance the timing from stock on a 5.0..

Just make sure you do it correctly, you will have to locate and pull the spout connector if you make adjustments.. Or else it will try to correct itself while adjusting.. It's pretty easy to do though. Obviously need a timing light but I'm sure you know that..

mattdel has some good suggestions as well, I'm just trying to cover all the no cost stuff you can do/check first...
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:44 PM
  #13  
Bubblehead
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This forum, and you guys are awesome. Thanks for the help. I will try a few things out and get back with the results.
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:27 AM
  #14  
dawson1112
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Maybe a bad ect sensor keeping the computer from going into a closed loop.
If the computer thinks the car is cold all the time it will run rich and hurt your fuel economy.
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:44 AM
  #15  
Bubblehead
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Going to go ahead and seafoam it today. I pretty much understand the process, just not sure which hose to diconnect. Can anyone tell me specifically/exactly where its located on a 95 GT? Also, if I add it to my gas tank, any recommended ratio, ie.. full bottle to full tank of gas??? Also, there looks to be 2 sensors in the area of the ECT sensor. Is it the one that is forward (front of car), or just aft of it. They are basically one to two inches from each other.
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:52 PM
  #16  
Duncan_GT
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When you pop the hood, look to the back right of the motor, on the fender wall. There's a black box with 3 or 4 larger lines coming off of it. The very bottom one goes to the intake manifold right behind the throttle body, that's the one you want to use as it will feed all 8 cylinders.

I did 1/3 of the can in the vacuum line, 1/3 in the gas tank, and 1/3 in the oil.

IF YOU PUT IT IN THE OIL, CHANGE THE OIL AFTER ALL THE SMOKE HAS CLEARED. Nobody likes hydro-lock.

Its easier to do with 2 people. One person feeds the line while the other one feathers the throttle. If you feed it too fast, you'll flood it and it will stall. If its just you, feed it really slow. You'll probably have to run smaller line from the vacuum line to the can; I forget if the line can reach/fit in the can by itself. You'll have to be sure to have your finger on the end of the line when you first start the car, otherwise it won't start. Then gently feed it by sticking the line in the can. I poured it into a bowl first and used that, keeping part of my thumb on the line and allowing the opening to suck up the stuff.

http://www.nzmustang.com/buysell/545-04.JPG
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:22 PM
  #17  
Bubblehead
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I went ahead and did the Sea Foam. I used one third of the bottle into the vacuum line. Yes, a lot of smoke bellowed out! I also put another bottle in the gas tank and filled it up. I have not rechecked the timing yet, but have that down for tomorrow. I went ahead and bought a new ECT sensor, considering it was only 17.99 and the one thats installed now looks all green and corroded. Who knows, may or may not make a difference. I also ordered the 2 new Botsch O2 sensors, but cant pick them up until Tuesday. Once I get everything done, I will run a tank of gas and post the results, which will hopefully show improved fuel economy. Should I wait until I go thru this tank of gas (with the sea foam in it) before I do the O2 sensors and ECT sensor? I planned on waiting to do the O2 sensors, but was planning on swapping out the ECT now. (I dont think it should matter??)
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Old 09-25-2012, 06:06 PM
  #18  
Bubblehead
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So, wanted to post an update. The first thing I did was Sea Foam (Vacuum intake, and gas tank,,,,did not put it in the oil since I just changed it,,,,,maybe next time) I also swapped out the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor. Ran a tank of gas through it and got 16.6 MPG. I ran the first so many miles pretty hard getting all the seafoam out.

Next I swapped out the O2 sensors. Since then, I have ran 2 tanks of gas through the car. The first was 17.2 MPG, and the 2nd was 18.8 MPG. Interestingly, half of the 17.2 tank was driven on the freeway going about 75MPH. The 18.8 MPG tank was driven primarily around my rural area, primarily 3-6 mile stretch of 50 MPH.

So, I believe the combination of all the swaps made a difference. Basically, I am getting about 60 more miles per tank than I was before.

The way I am figuring MPG is. 1. Fill up tank COMPLETELY full. 2. Reset odometer. 3. Drive until almost on Empty. 4. Refill tank and note how many gallons it takes to fill it back up COMPLETELY. 5. Divide miles on odometer by gallons to fill back up.

So on my last tank, I filled back up at 238 miles, and it took 12.65 gallons. 18.8 MPG
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