dawson1112

Blaster 2 coil should still have the ballast resistor . I think running with out it has fried the coil.
Honestly I think with the duraspark box still there you should just go to the stock coil setup. The duraspark ignition was actually a very good system . Make sure you get a balast resistor to put back in line with the red wire that goes to the + side of the coil.

dawson1112

The blaster 2 coil on that setup still requires a balast resistor to keep the coil from getting full voltage. I would say that running the system with out it has fried the coil.
The duraspark II ignition system is actually a very good system. I would just get the stock coil and a balast resistor and hook it back up properly.

And yes for the durasprk setup you need to get a balast resistor.
The old points systems used a coil that didnt require an external resistor , but with the duraspark electronic ignition you need a coil for electronic ignition system and a balast resistior.
And keeping your low budget in mind your best bet is autozone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=966597_0_0_

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=253187_0_0_

Its to bad You dont live closer I have a coil and resistor I would give you off of a mustang that I switched out to a msd igniton.

monakey

I replaced the coil. It's got an accel 8140 super stock now. I'm not getting any spark to the plugs. It's also getting really hot. I could not find a ballast. I'm still stuck

monakey

I replaced the coil with an ACCEL one no ballast resistor still. still not starting. I managed to pull a plug and check. there was no spark. the coil is still crazy hot. I cannot hold it more than 3 seconds and the engine itself is cold.

Im worried that when i bounced it around on that dip that the positive cable came off bounced around and something shorted somewhere.

the diagram is pretty simple right? Im not over complicating anything? The I side off the starter switch was never there. I tried getting voltage to it with the car ON no voltage. So i bypassed all circuits tied 12v from battery to the + terminal on the coil. then tied the - to the green at the plug off the ignition module. still not starting. I dont really have a way of testing the coil's total voltage/amperage output but I have to assume it's making it to the distributor.

So if it's making it to the distributor... could it be anything in the distributor? rotor/cap assembly? it couldnt have destroyed all spark plug wires right?

There is a 8 pin/plug in the vicinity of the ignition module. some of these wires go to the ignition side of things. ALL of those wires had broken insulation and were taped up in this giant mess =( Is there a circuit in there that could be suspect?

Any other ideas? I'm close to breaking.

dawson1112

Just out of curiosity have you had the cap off the distributor and made sure its turning? just makeing sure the timeing chain isnt broke lol or the dizzy gear .
It could be a bad pick up in the dizzy itself. Try to see if you have a spark getting to the dizzy . pull the coil wire off the dizzy and put a plug in it or somthing and confirm spark from coil
The coil should not be getting hot unless you have a short in one of those wires that are all taped together . That is where I would start by fixing that mess so that the wires are not taped up together like that.
BLACK TAPE IS NOT FOR REPAIRING WIRES lol especeially under the hood where the temps get hot , black tape gets brittle and cracks .
If you dont get spark from the coil wire its time to take the ign, moldule and have it checked . If you have spark from the coil wire then Id say the pickup inside the dizzy is bad. Still you need to get a ballast resistor on that coil.

Doomstein

Since you mentioned you had an electric choke on your carb, check the wire that goes from your coil to your carb's electric choke. A broken connection could cause your car to crank but not start. That's because when the wire has no power going through it, the choke stays closed.

I have an 84 5.0 and I used to detach that wire when I would leave town and leave my car for an extened period, as an anti-theft measure.

*edit*
I guess I should have been clearer. Most electric chokes are actually hooked to the stator wire on the alternator, and yours probably is too. Mine is hooked to the coil because I live in warm weather and it's not really needed that much ect ect.

But the key thing is to make sure there's voltage running to the electric choke. I don't know if you have a voltmeter, but if you do check it, if not, borrow or buy one, they're pretty cheap.

oldfordisbetter

I too have a starting problem on my 85. It has msd cap rotor coil plugs wires but duraspark box. I has edelbrock elect choke carb. I get spark everywhere and choke is wired up correctly but it wont turn over. I pump gas over and ovr then itll catch after 2 or 3 tries...