WOT at start-up
#1
WOT at start-up
1989 with a 5.0. I've been having problems with my car not starting after it reaches operating temp. I replaced the TFI ignition module today on the distributor, plan on relocating it in a heat sink on the firewall when it comes in to get it out of the heat. It started up fine cold so I let the engine warm up and killed it to see what it would do when I tried to restart it. It wouldn't restart of course so I held the gas pedal down just to see what would happen on the third try, still wouldn't start. I left it alone for awhile and went back out there to try it again and it went WOT so I turned the ign. switch back off real quick. I tried it two more times and the same thing happened. I checked the throttle cable and it's not hanging up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
#2
Hmm...............
Well, it's just about impossible to go WOT without the butterfly actually being open, its just not enough air flow. Hard to say on that part. Mayyyybe the IAC.
The startup issue could be the PIP inside the distributor, as it's the #2 part to check for heat related failure.
I'm thinking the whole problem is connected to whatever is causing WOT. Check TPS voltage KOEO after you've verified that the butterfly is not open.
Well, it's just about impossible to go WOT without the butterfly actually being open, its just not enough air flow. Hard to say on that part. Mayyyybe the IAC.
The startup issue could be the PIP inside the distributor, as it's the #2 part to check for heat related failure.
I'm thinking the whole problem is connected to whatever is causing WOT. Check TPS voltage KOEO after you've verified that the butterfly is not open.
#3
Hmm...............
Well, it's just about impossible to go WOT without the butterfly actually being open, its just not enough air flow. Hard to say on that part. Mayyyybe the IAC.
The startup issue could be the PIP inside the distributor, as it's the #2 part to check for heat related failure.
I'm thinking the whole problem is connected to whatever is causing WOT. Check TPS voltage KOEO after you've verified that the butterfly is not open.
Well, it's just about impossible to go WOT without the butterfly actually being open, its just not enough air flow. Hard to say on that part. Mayyyybe the IAC.
The startup issue could be the PIP inside the distributor, as it's the #2 part to check for heat related failure.
I'm thinking the whole problem is connected to whatever is causing WOT. Check TPS voltage KOEO after you've verified that the butterfly is not open.
Last edited by Mike T; 12-18-2012 at 06:31 PM.
#4
Have you checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve? When you check you should be getting anything from 30-45 psi i believe, (dont quote me i havent had this issue in awhile!) Do this when motor is cold and again when prob occurs! Maybe your gas pump is on its last leg?
Never mind, wrong thread!
Never mind, wrong thread!
Last edited by Js88lx; 12-18-2012 at 06:26 PM. Reason: edit
#5
Have you checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve? When you check you should be getting anything from 30-45 psi i believe, (dont quote me i havent had this issue in awhile!) Do this when motor is cold and again when prob occurs! Maybe your gas pump is on its last leg?
#6
Is there anything else that could be causing this no-start condition? What about it being stuck in this KOER-like phase on start-up, what could be causing this? What about the ECU?
Last edited by Mike T; 12-18-2012 at 07:13 PM.
#7
I cant see the engine going WOT if the butterfly is closed, unless you have one massive vacuum leak. Possibly the iac is stuck wide open or the rod that goes through the butterfly is broken or froze up some how. Maybe a broken spring on the throttle linkage .
#8
As bad as my luck has been the throttle plate is probably broken and got sucked down the intake.
Last edited by Mike T; 12-18-2012 at 07:49 PM.
#9
The WOT issue I think I have enough suggestions to straighten out. I ran out of daylight to check it closer. Maybe when I move the TFI to the firewall, that will fix the no-start condition.
Last edited by Mike T; 12-23-2012 at 06:39 AM.
#10
TFI doesn't need to be on the firewall, they last 10 years where they are. If you have that much heatsoak on it, you need a new fan clutch, or you need to redo the electrical jelly **** on the back of the TFI