5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Main Studs & Oil Pump Pickup

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-11-2013, 03:29 PM
  #1  
Duncan_GT
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Duncan_GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 1,353
Default Main Studs & Oil Pump Pickup

So on a stock engine, the oil pump pickup tube is supported at the #3 main cap. There's a tab on the oil pump pickup w a hole, it attaches to the stud on the cap and is held on by another nut.

So here's the problem. Im currently installing ARP main studs, and I dont see where to attach/support the pickup tube. The new stud is bigger where the tube should attach to, so the tab on the pickup doesnt fit. Should I just modify the tab and drill a bigger hole? But, even if I do that, there's not enough threads to put the tab on and support it with a washer + nut.

Any ideas?

Name:  1363036339_zpsec3af9a1.jpg
Views: 583
Size:  86.5 KB

Last edited by Duncan_GT; 03-11-2013 at 11:24 PM.
Duncan_GT is offline  
Old 03-13-2013, 09:17 PM
  #2  
capri debris
3rd Gear Member
 
capri debris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 823
Default

I did not use the washer under the nut, the mounting tab for the pickup is serving the same purpose as the washer... and yes, I had to drill the hole out to fit over the stud.

Here's a pic:

capri debris is offline  
Old 03-14-2013, 02:13 PM
  #3  
Duncan_GT
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Duncan_GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 1,353
Default

Did you set the tab in between the main cap and the ARP nut?
Duncan_GT is offline  
Old 03-14-2013, 11:49 PM
  #4  
tinman
5th Gear Member
 
tinman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 4,103
Default

I hope you had that block align-honed before you put those studs in it.........
Studs will change things a little bit.
tinman is offline  
Old 03-15-2013, 12:33 AM
  #5  
Duncan_GT
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Duncan_GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 1,353
Default

Originally Posted by tinman
I hope you had that block align-honed before you put those studs in it.........
Studs will change things a little bit.
How so? I'm using undersized bearings if you're talking of clearance issues. I know with standard bearings and stock bolts, the engine had about .0015-.0019 main clearance throughout. With the undersize bearings (+.001), I'm hoping to get between .0025-.003" clearance. I know when I installed the studs and the standard bearings, I had about 0015" throughout.

Last edited by Duncan_GT; 03-15-2013 at 01:01 AM.
Duncan_GT is offline  
Old 03-15-2013, 07:26 PM
  #6  
capri debris
3rd Gear Member
 
capri debris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 823
Default

When you switch from bolts to studs, you must have the block line bored. The change from bolts to studs positions the main caps in a slightly different place and deforms them differently when torqued down. So what may be a round hole with a bolt will not be round with a stud.

To line bore, the machine shop will shave a little off the cap surface that mates to the block... then mount them to the block and machine a true "new" bore from the front of the block to the back.

If you didn't do this, you run the risk of spun bearings or at the very least, short life out of the bearings.
capri debris is offline  
Old 03-15-2013, 08:16 PM
  #7  
Duncan_GT
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Duncan_GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 1,353
Default

Yeah I looked into it and am going to have it done. Does the shop need the main bearings in order to do this?
Duncan_GT is offline  
Old 03-16-2013, 03:33 AM
  #8  
tinman
5th Gear Member
 
tinman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 4,103
Default

No, I don't think they need the bearings that you are going to use.
Capri Explained quite well about the need for the machine work..........
tinman is offline  
Old 03-16-2013, 12:01 PM
  #9  
Duncan_GT
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
Duncan_GT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Indy
Posts: 1,353
Default

Originally Posted by tinman
No, I don't think they need the bearings that you are going to use.
Capri Explained quite well about the need for the machine work..........
Cool. I got in touch with the machine shop, they priced it at $150. Does this sound like an average/decent price?

Back to the oil pump pickup... I was looking at it today, I have maybe .5" of thread left after the mains are torqued down. Is this enough to put both the pickup's tab and another nut to hold it in place? Doesn't seem like it as I sit and think about it. I was going to get a Grade 8 nut and red loctite it just for assurance
Duncan_GT is offline  
Old 03-17-2013, 11:49 PM
  #10  
tinman
5th Gear Member
 
tinman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 4,103
Default

IO think maybe you could use a 'Jam' nut there and you'd be okay.
Jam nuts are only about half as thick as a standard hex nut, they can be found at any industrial supplier or even a good hardware store.
I'd use a little red locktite on it too.........
tinman is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
9550
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
10
10-26-2015 05:01 PM
LiquidDrink
Classic Mustangs (Tech)
8
09-29-2015 10:06 AM
SteelerNation82
V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs
1
09-16-2015 07:11 AM
cbird1177711
2005-2014 Mustangs
2
09-03-2015 08:43 PM
cbird1177711
2005-2014 Mustangs
3
09-02-2015 08:51 PM



Quick Reply: Main Studs & Oil Pump Pickup



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:08 PM.