Main Studs & Oil Pump Pickup
#1
Main Studs & Oil Pump Pickup
So on a stock engine, the oil pump pickup tube is supported at the #3 main cap. There's a tab on the oil pump pickup w a hole, it attaches to the stud on the cap and is held on by another nut.
So here's the problem. Im currently installing ARP main studs, and I dont see where to attach/support the pickup tube. The new stud is bigger where the tube should attach to, so the tab on the pickup doesnt fit. Should I just modify the tab and drill a bigger hole? But, even if I do that, there's not enough threads to put the tab on and support it with a washer + nut.
Any ideas?
So here's the problem. Im currently installing ARP main studs, and I dont see where to attach/support the pickup tube. The new stud is bigger where the tube should attach to, so the tab on the pickup doesnt fit. Should I just modify the tab and drill a bigger hole? But, even if I do that, there's not enough threads to put the tab on and support it with a washer + nut.
Any ideas?
Last edited by Duncan_GT; 03-11-2013 at 11:24 PM.
#5
How so? I'm using undersized bearings if you're talking of clearance issues. I know with standard bearings and stock bolts, the engine had about .0015-.0019 main clearance throughout. With the undersize bearings (+.001), I'm hoping to get between .0025-.003" clearance. I know when I installed the studs and the standard bearings, I had about 0015" throughout.
Last edited by Duncan_GT; 03-15-2013 at 01:01 AM.
#6
When you switch from bolts to studs, you must have the block line bored. The change from bolts to studs positions the main caps in a slightly different place and deforms them differently when torqued down. So what may be a round hole with a bolt will not be round with a stud.
To line bore, the machine shop will shave a little off the cap surface that mates to the block... then mount them to the block and machine a true "new" bore from the front of the block to the back.
If you didn't do this, you run the risk of spun bearings or at the very least, short life out of the bearings.
To line bore, the machine shop will shave a little off the cap surface that mates to the block... then mount them to the block and machine a true "new" bore from the front of the block to the back.
If you didn't do this, you run the risk of spun bearings or at the very least, short life out of the bearings.
#9
Back to the oil pump pickup... I was looking at it today, I have maybe .5" of thread left after the mains are torqued down. Is this enough to put both the pickup's tab and another nut to hold it in place? Doesn't seem like it as I sit and think about it. I was going to get a Grade 8 nut and red loctite it just for assurance
#10
IO think maybe you could use a 'Jam' nut there and you'd be okay.
Jam nuts are only about half as thick as a standard hex nut, they can be found at any industrial supplier or even a good hardware store.
I'd use a little red locktite on it too.........
Jam nuts are only about half as thick as a standard hex nut, they can be found at any industrial supplier or even a good hardware store.
I'd use a little red locktite on it too.........
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post