big turbo build questions. please help.
#1
big turbo build questions. please help.
this winter has been long and tough in the shop this year. doing a full wire tuck and turbo install. now this is what i got for mods now
on3 performance 70mm turbo kit
42lb injectors
bbk high flow fuel rails with pressure regulator
trick flow track heat upper and lower intake manifolds with 1in spacer
bbk 75mm throttle body with 1in spacer
walbro 255lph fuel pump
blow through maf
ac/power steering delete
355 gears. thinking of switching back to the stock 2.72s.
cant get a number on them but i believe there gt40s
using del pro gaskets
now to start off. u may b thinking why go so low with the gearing. first off before the turbo, power steering delete, elec water pump and aluminum drive shaft i was hitting 300bhp. im looking to hit around 450- 500. nothing more then that considering the stock 5.0 block can supposedly only hold 510 before cracking... is there anything else i should look out for such as internals? rod/ crank bracket bolts? etc???
on3 performance 70mm turbo kit
42lb injectors
bbk high flow fuel rails with pressure regulator
trick flow track heat upper and lower intake manifolds with 1in spacer
bbk 75mm throttle body with 1in spacer
walbro 255lph fuel pump
blow through maf
ac/power steering delete
355 gears. thinking of switching back to the stock 2.72s.
cant get a number on them but i believe there gt40s
using del pro gaskets
now to start off. u may b thinking why go so low with the gearing. first off before the turbo, power steering delete, elec water pump and aluminum drive shaft i was hitting 300bhp. im looking to hit around 450- 500. nothing more then that considering the stock 5.0 block can supposedly only hold 510 before cracking... is there anything else i should look out for such as internals? rod/ crank bracket bolts? etc???
#2
there is no majic number when it cracks, rpm / cap walk is what starts it all.....seen it happen on 300 hp rides...........and keep the 3.55's, using 2.73's will make that car run like a turd rolling up a hill. Got a friend who ran a on3 set up, made 479 at the rear wheels and ran low 11's.......he ran 60 lb inj's, 42's at the level you want will max out before that level, We took the 3.55'sout than put in 3.08's, it took off like a super turd!!, went right back to 3.55's and it did well.
#3
ik theres no magic number. my friend ironically built two motors up to 500 - 520 and blew both. but ok so ill stick with the 3.55's and up my injectors to 60lb. i also herd that in the 89s, all the internals are forged???? is this true? if so i prob don't need to worry about them if im not upping 500hp. i just hope to see at least 450rwhp. don't think itll be a problem. and one last thing. i have arp head bolts. but are the rod bolts and crank bracket bolts good enough. just being real cautious after what happened to my friends car.
#4
What is a crank bracket? Are you talking about the main caps? Either way, I would switch everything to studs IMO. Better clamping force blah blah blah. With the money you've spent thus far, it's probably a good idea to start looking for a dart based block.
#5
ya the main caps. i was spacing out haha. and im doing the dart block and all eagle forged internals and slp pistons next year. want to finish off the fox project with 600rwhp/tq and good reliability. basing it all off of a 800hp build. looking to be pushing big numbers and small quarter mile numbers then but this year im only looking for 450-5. i was thinking about converting everything to studs. just popped into my head today. but do u think the bolts that came on it stock can hold up for this season????
#6
nd im trying to limit drivetrain loos as much as possible. maybe ill just go to 430-450ish. and im bringing the car to place here called performance dyne. old friend of mine and knows all the limits and told me that i should get boosted and hell work in a safe tune for now untill i get my block next year.
#7
Lightweight parts and a good clutch. Lighter wheels and driveshaft, axles etc etc. To limit drivetrain loss, you'll want to lessen the inertia of the system. Better quality gearing and transmission oil is a plus, lubricates and lessens internal frictions.
Last edited by Duncan_GT; 03-30-2013 at 06:54 PM.
#9
ya. already doing an aluminum driveshaft and over the summer im doing a 5 lug conversion and weld racing aluminum drag light rims. 6.5 in front and 14s in the back to handle the plans for next winter. possibly switching to a t56. haven't looked into tranys to much. doing that later on. along with a dana 50 rear end. also need to try and handle the power. but we'll see what happens. what are ur sugestions on tranys, rear end and axels. needs to b 32 spline. or at least better then the stock ones