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Bye bye rag joint.

Old 05-16-2013, 12:01 PM
  #1  
BabyGT
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Default Bye bye rag joint.

So my rag joint in my steering linkage was pretty shot. Was looking at the steering shaft from maximum motorsports and decide "hey I can make that". Went to junkyard, got another shaft and universal, did some cutting, grinding, welding, cussing, and some drilling and made my own steering shaft. My problem is my quality control wasn't the best in the world with keeping everything straight cause I was tired and not really caring at some points.

So I get it all bolted back in, fits perfect, sit in the car and dang, my wheel is turned to the left when the wheels are straight now. It's tolerable, not a whole lot, but I'd like to fix it. I know I can adjust each tie rod till the wheel is straight but then I would lose turning radius in one direction. Don't want that.

I haven't pulled the wheel off yet to find out and wasn't going to unless I was sure my thought is correct.

The wheel goes on a splined shaft correct? Could I get the wheels straight ahead, pull the steering wheel off, turn it till its straight and stick it back on and bolt it back down?

Forgot to take some pics of my steering shaft finished before I bolted it in but here's some on the car

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Old 05-16-2013, 12:53 PM
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mattdel
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You won't lose radius by adjusting the tie rods, that is what they are there for.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:05 PM
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If I adjust them both the same amount the same direction yes you will. It's pullin the rack off to one side so it's in theory already biased to one direction and won't turn as far in that direction before you hit lock.

So with my crappy iphone illustrations here's a break down. Wit the wheels and rack centered the steering wheel is crooked.
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If I adjust the tie rods the same amount in the same directions it will straighten the wheel by pulling the shaft in the rack off to one side, just like when you turn, reducing the difference till lock point towards that direction and increasing the other direction.

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Old 05-16-2013, 02:20 PM
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Derf00
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Take the steering wheel off the shaft and center it proorly. Tie rods are there to adjust toe and alignment between the front wheel, not make up for a sloppy/lazy install on the steering wheel alignment.

If you adjust out tie rods too far you also run the risk of bending the ends over small pot holes because less of it will be threaded on the steering rack.
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:35 PM
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BabyGT
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Originally Posted by Derf00
Take the steering wheel off the shaft and center it proorly. Tie rods are there to adjust toe and alignment between the front wheel, not make up for a sloppy/lazy install on the steering wheel alignment.

If you adjust out tie rods too far you also run the risk of bending the ends over small pot holes because less of it will be threaded on the steering rack.
I know all that, that's what I was using my crappy diagrams to say I can't do to the other guys post. I was just making sure that if I pull the wheel off I will be able to center it and slip it back on. I can't remember what the vehicle was but I pulled the wheel off something a whole back and just one of the splines is larger than the rest so the wheel can only go on one way.

I wanted to make sure before I go through all the work of pulling the wheel that my plan to pull, rotate and bolt back on, that I wasn't wasting my time pulling it off.



So short question. The splines are the same all the way around? I can pull the steering wheel off, with the car aligned straight, then put the wheel back on straight and it will still slide on? And won't have any issues with signal cancel junk lining up or anything?
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Old 05-16-2013, 03:11 PM
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dawson1112
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Yea you can just pull the steering wheel and rotate it , it wont have any effect on the turn signal switch at all. There is no set spline pattern on the steering wheel and will slide on at any position. Just so you know if you have never had a steering wheel off sometimes they require a puller to remove.
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:02 PM
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Yes, I have, and I have a full set of pullers, I have the tools was just making sure I wasn't wasting my time pulling it off.

Thanks for the good news!
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:05 PM
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Maxwelhse
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I realize this is not what you asked, but I would feel terrible forever if something happened to you and I didn't say anything. Without trying to be overly critical and being honestly interested in your safety, I see 2 things:

1 - I don't want this to sound as bad as I'm sure it's going to... but... are you sure about the quality of your weld? Looks kinda... well... gobbed on...

2 - That looks like a nut and bolt going through the two portions of the column that would normally collapse during a front end collision... Are you confident that the bolt would break before you ended up with your keys sticking out of your spine? ...or... am I seeing it all wrong?

-----

I'll confirm that YES, you can realign the steering wheel itself.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:25 PM
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See the skinny portion of the shaft on the rack side? Where i cut the old portion off it was the same size, so the bigger portion fit over it perfect, that's what's giving it strength. The weld is helping a bit but is mostly acting like glue, not so much strength.

If you look under the dash there is a second collapse point. With 3 universals and the extra collapse point I'm feeling pretty safe. The through bolt is because there was a bit of play between the two shaft portions, it's tightening up the play.

If I hit anything hard enough to need the travel from the collapse point under the dash PLUS that portion of the shaft the dashboard is prolly gonna be in the back seat.

On top of the fox body didnt have a collapse point on this portion either

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Last edited by BabyGT; 05-16-2013 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:31 PM
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Maxwelhse
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Uhhh... My Fox has a collapse point at that portion of the column!

Anyhow, cool, as long as you're good with it!
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