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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

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Old 09-10-2013, 06:05 PM   #1
mustangdriver91
 
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Vehicle: 1991, ford, mustang
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Default How hard is it to pull out my 1991 5.0 motor

I just found out that my new 1991 mustang 5.0 has a bad cylinder or something because the one cylinder wont go above 10psi so anyways i was wondering a few things about replacing motor.

Ok so when removing the motor will the clutch and stuff come out with entire motor or will it stay connected to transmission?

What is the order of things you do when pulling motor out and what will be the hard parts of replacing it with another 5.0 engine?
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:20 PM   #2
Chromeshadow
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Should take a rookie about a day to remove...I'd pull the heads first and check the valves and head gasket.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:59 PM   #3
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You can remove the engine and transmission as a combination or pull/drop the tranny before pulling out the motor, up to you. The clutch/flywheel/bellhousing can stay attached to the motor though if you want to, usually what I do.
Get the car up in the air as high as you can and drop the exhaust, then driveshaft, then inside the car remove the shifter, tranny connectors, drain the tranny fluid if you don't have a tailshaft plug and then you can go about removing the 4 tranny mount bolts. That is usually how I do it but check first to make sure you don't have a blown head gasket or burned valve.
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Last edited by arnie93lx; 09-10-2013 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:16 PM   #4
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Ok Arnie so basicaly i have the tranny from my 1984 c20 sitting under it rite now and going to put it back in this weekend but i didnt use a tranny jack when removing it but it was a pita and it will be hard to get back in probably lol.
So I was wondering if i could just pull the entire motor with tranny or would that require more work and make it super hard to get them out of car together?
One more thing so after the motor is out is it hard/complicated to install the torque converter and other stuff that an automatic has between trans and motor? Yes i said clutch earlier but i have a auto so no clutch plates lol forgot.
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:22 AM   #5
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Before pulling the engine I would try to verify that it is not a broken valve spring , burnt valve, bent valve, or blown head gasket.

If all other cylinders passed compression, the one that's only at 10 psi would lead me to believe valve train issue. ChromeShadow has the right Idea , verify valve train or head gasket failure first.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:33 AM   #6
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U can pull the motor and tranny as a combo, you will need an engine tilting bracket on the hoist though. It is easier to do it with the hood removed and an extra buddy or two to help guide it. I personally pull the tranny out separately each time I have pulled my motor, less chance of dinging up my car pulling the tranny out first.

I have never removed or installed a converter, I have 2 stangs with 5 speeds. Converter should be installed first though I believe. It bolts to the flexplate before you install the tranny.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:29 PM   #7
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No.
Install the flexplate to the crank and then seat the converter against the front pump of the trans AFTER installing a new front seal in the trans.
Bolt the trans to the engine and only then bolt the converter to the flexplate.......
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:14 AM   #8
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Disregard what I said about installing the converter, I have stangs with 5 speeds so I don't know.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:32 PM   #9
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Ok lol so what should i look for with the valves? Basicaly just pull the valve cover and start the motor and check if they are all moving and nonthing looks out of the ordinary? My freind said he thinks it might be a hole in the piston, or need a head job. Also i tried the oil in cylinder thing and it did nothing but make my one exhuast pipe smoke blue now from the oil burning still, idk if that means anything to yall that the oil thing didnt change my compression in that cylinder.
Oh and all my others were
170
160
170
149 and went down to 146 after 5minutes of sitting with gauge hooked up
169
and 3rd was 10 then i didnt even check the last two as i saw no point in waisting my time
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:59 PM   #10
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With the compression you have it looks like the engine is in pretty good shape. I'd check all of them. Like Dalson said..if only one is bad, prob valve train. If two side by side, prob head gasket. You might learn more by removing the valve cover and turning the engine over to see if the valve s are opening and closing.
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:59 PM
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