timing cover gasket and header bolt questions
#1
timing cover gasket and header bolt questions
i have what i believe is the correct gasket for the bottom of the timing cover gasket. it came in a engine gasket kit from ford.
when i compare it with the old one that came off, i notice it doesnt have a groove on the side that mates up with the ridge in the oil pan. does the gasket just compress around the ridge and form a groove, or do i need a different gasket?
this bolt is on my shorty header. i cant get the nut on any further. not sure if its got enough thread left for me to connect the header to the collector sufficiently. i was thinking i could replace the bolt. can somebody tell me if the bolt should screw out (is it threaded where it is connected to the header), or is it welded in? i assume it is threaded in. i made an effort to remove it but it wasnt budging.
when i compare it with the old one that came off, i notice it doesnt have a groove on the side that mates up with the ridge in the oil pan. does the gasket just compress around the ridge and form a groove, or do i need a different gasket?
this bolt is on my shorty header. i cant get the nut on any further. not sure if its got enough thread left for me to connect the header to the collector sufficiently. i was thinking i could replace the bolt. can somebody tell me if the bolt should screw out (is it threaded where it is connected to the header), or is it welded in? i assume it is threaded in. i made an effort to remove it but it wasnt budging.
#2
Im not real sure about the gaskets , Ive never had an actual sn95 engine both my sn95s were swaps , 1 was a v6 that I put a 68 302 in and the other was 94 gt with an 89 block.
I can tell you that the header flange stud comes out . It is threaded into the flange and you should replace it. If that's all the further you can get the nut on there isn't enough there to tighten it up. You may have to heat it to remove the studs.
I can tell you that the header flange stud comes out . It is threaded into the flange and you should replace it. If that's all the further you can get the nut on there isn't enough there to tighten it up. You may have to heat it to remove the studs.
#3
The gasket is fine, that is what the felpro one piece looks like that I use.
As for the stud: a torch, penetrating oil, and vice grips are going to be your best bet. Spray the oil and let it sit (it will eat some of the corroded metal). The torch helps loosen the metal by expanding it when it gets hot. This breaks any rusty threaded connection deep in the threads. Vice grips are self explanatory. When I broke the starter bolt off in my bellhousing, I had to rock it back and forth before finally putting some muscle on it. Don't worry about tearing the stud up since you aren't going to reuse it
As for the stud: a torch, penetrating oil, and vice grips are going to be your best bet. Spray the oil and let it sit (it will eat some of the corroded metal). The torch helps loosen the metal by expanding it when it gets hot. This breaks any rusty threaded connection deep in the threads. Vice grips are self explanatory. When I broke the starter bolt off in my bellhousing, I had to rock it back and forth before finally putting some muscle on it. Don't worry about tearing the stud up since you aren't going to reuse it
#4
thanks guys
was a little bit of a pain to get the timing cover on with that bottom gasket, but i think i got it on there correctly.
sprayed more penetrating oil on the header bolts (i had done that already) will try and get them off at some point.
was a little bit of a pain to get the timing cover on with that bottom gasket, but i think i got it on there correctly.
sprayed more penetrating oil on the header bolts (i had done that already) will try and get them off at some point.
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