dawson1112

Seriously the gt40p doesn't flow more than a couple cfm more than the gt40 heads. If it were me Id stay with what I had and just rent the valve spring compressor and pull the valves 1 by 1 and clean and polish them.

If the valve was bent you would have noticed it while the car was running because it would have had a definite audible tick to it. Its more than likely just got a small build up of carbon there keeping it from seating . It doesn't take much to cause the valve to leak. Id try it first before spending the money to have them reworked.
Try that one valve and then see if it still leaks fluid , you don't need to grind them just a good polish should do the trick.

The money youd drop on a set of p heads wouldn't be cost effective in my book. Chances are if you have a cobra intake the gt40 heads were from the cobra as well and the cobra gt40 heads are all ready milled to get from the 65cc combustion chamber down to 61cc. The intake runners are the same on both gt40 and gt40 heads .

Head intake port combustion chamber intake valve exhaust valve
E7TE 124cc 61cc 1.78 1.46
GT40P 145cc 59cc 1.85 1.46
GT40-Explorer 145cc 65cc 1.85 1.54
GT40-Cobra 145cc 61cc 1.85 1.54

9550

so, i got hold of a spring compressor and took off the valve at the worst leak.
theres a chunk of debris baked onto the lip of the valve, so i m going to assume thats the problem.
lots of crud in the runner. that long piece of something that looks like a stick seemed to be plastic, but it was very brittle and borke easily in my hand. i dont know what it is.
the last pic is of the washer that sits under the spring. it is clearly damaged and i want to replace it. whats the official name of said washer? sorry its blurry.

how bad does this all look or does it look normal for 100,000 plus miles

barnett468

hi,

i would also grind the seat and check the others for leaks using the method i suggested in my previous post.

i have only seen brass spring shims under springs AFTER a valve job but not plastic ones but i am unfamiliar with 5.0's.

yes the gunk looks normal to me as i also mentioned in my previous post.

Duncan_GT

The "washer" looks to be a shim. Basically used to set the correct spring pressure. My 302 I just pulled was gunked up like that too, which I knew was a neglect to change the oil from the PO. Bad valve seals could also gunk up stuff pretty quick. Did the motor burn any oil when it was together? Any white puffs of smoke?

9550

those are shims? hmm. ok. these are alsmot paper thin. i guess they come in a variety of sizes and im going to need a caliper to check the width

i dont know if there was any smoke or if it was burning oil. lets say there was, what is there something i would replace at this point (heads off, valves out)?

i have pulled all the valves. was having a little trouble with a couple, but a little tap with a hammer and socket and those little clip things pop right up. i dont know why that worked, but it did. i had the pressure on the spring and it didnt seem to be compressing much, then a little tap and it moved. could the springs be bad somehow?

is there an easy way to clean all this caked on crud on the heads? can i dip the heads in a vat of something? powerwash? just spray on some solvent and scrub? or ?
i want them to be really clean.

thanks

Duncan_GT

You could always take them in to be hot tanked. That would probably be the easiest way to clean them. I forget how much it was for my block to be cleaned

barnett468

if your seats have more than around 5000 miles on them yoiu should recut them.

i told you haw to check the cyl for wear in my previous post. you need positive valve stem seals to minimize oil leaking past valves. if the guides are worn they should be replaced.