Derf00

Did all of this just start happening out of the blue? That connector seems like it was unplugged and plugged back in without being checked. That's the only way the pin could get all bent like that.

Think very carefully about when the last time anyone was under the hood and when the problems started...

(anyone have any reason to fug with your car? The hood on your year can be popped from the outside. All you have to do is go under the front bumper and straight up to the hood latch with a hanger or a very thin arm/hand.)

aode08

Yeah all of this out of the dam blue lol, when I just bought all these christmas gifts and paid bills, and now broke, the worst time, EVERY TIME.
This car is not a tinker car, I restored it, all my wires and connections are solid,soldered and heat shrinked to perfection, mechanical in tip top shape, ive drove this car out of town more than 10 times a year,since ownership

Well finding the coil was bad is one thing.I'm now going to test the pickup ohms,as the distributor pickup is original factory one.We just got a snow storm and i got a nasty cold from working on this car, but that's not going to stop me,just slow me down some.

But I have got a good feeling the ignition coil is going to be sole culprit at this point.

The tab is only bent to make a strong contact with the connector, the same with the salt and pepper shakers to make good connections


The ecm is not out of the question until last,

as from past experience, problems with the ignition system failures can spike our ecms and they die very easy.
I've seen them die from bad sensors and alternators all the time on this forum and others. BTW WHAT HAPPENED TO THAT ADKERMK2 m2k or whatever guy GUY?

yurizx6r

Yes, great thread! I had a bad computer once, my symptoms were 14 MPG's, bucking at 1600-2100 RPMs, more engine noise, and minor power loss. Chased that problem for over a year because I had just bought the car. The good thing about the computer is you can find somebody with a similar computer (BE SURE THEY ARE COMPATIBLE ex A9L vs APL are not the same), and it's the easiest way to check your computer. On the plus side, swapping out the coil for like an MSD is an upgrade anyways!

aode08

ok lol, im sick as a dog and its snow storms here, cant even stand up without getting dizzy due to illness cold/flu or allergies, you never know lol,

I went to undo the battery and my ratchet is frozen to my fender and will not release! I don't want to ruin my new paint job.The wind is so cold it takes your breath away.sucks

so none of you guys know what happened to addker? he had the black sn-95?

very rude guy, but good with electricals.

aode08

ok im back in effect, the distributor is coming out and i'm removing the pickup coil since, it looks very old and a lot of nasty debris around it in the dizzy, however the dizzy has no slack or play, and therefore, no need for a near unit or steel gear.

I'm also installing a new ignition module on the distributor itself. Free-recalled part/Ford

Its just $15 for the part for the magnetic pickup coil in side the dizzy to replace.

Ill make pics of progress asap and procedure for installing a new pickup.


The Coil Pack connector has been successfully cleaned and restored to new by letting in soak in JEWELRY CLEANER for 3 days, no need for a new one, the coil pack itself is at fault for shorting out internally

mjr46

addermk2 was banned

88 orangepeel notch

I can insult you if you like, lol

aode08

Ok just got done rebuilding the distributor.

1st, remove dizzy cap, leave wires on it,put a white dot where rotor button is pointing in center on the cap for when instal it later, you timing is not way off.

2.Remove the two dowel pins holding the distributor gear and spacer on the shaft, but using a hammer and tapping on the sides of the dowels,I used a small flat head and hammer.

3.Remove the distributor steel gear using a general two or 3 jaw puller, or have it pressed out by any shop for free or ten bucks.

4.Use a hammer or rubber mallet to tap the shaft out, its stuck by dirt,and grime.
Continue banging it out using a chisel or screw driver.

5.Using 80 or 120 grit sand paper, clean sand the shaft.the spacer and gear, in a way they are very shiny and smooth and not too much effort with putting the gear and spacer on the shaft is needed by hand, keep sanding till you get there!



6.Next remove the ignition control module, I used the cheap 3 dollar ford distributor tool from autozone.

7.Using the same tool, remove the distributor pickup and replace it, you can use pliers on the tool to start the bolts, because your fingers wont break em loose with the tool.
You will notice the old one has rust on its face,may have microscopic cracks allowing moisture inside, AND A BLACK TRAIL LINE ON ITS FACE.But most of all its been on the car
so many years and outdone its useful purpose.
8.Instal the pickup, slide the shaft back in,the spacer back on the shaft first, flat wide area, pointing up,then its dowel pin,then the gear,sleeve pointing UP, then its dowel pin.

Your done enjoy your new monster, engine sounds evil now.While your at it clean the maf sensor, and replace the air filter, check your fluids.
I would say, with the intensive labor 1 hour of muscle testing, id buy a new one since they are $45 autozone,rebuilt without the ignition control module.
But my car is a restoration, so I have to have the Motorcraft unit it came with.

Looks like my computer was not bad at all, just a dumb coil pack and pickup module.

aode08

lol,we don't live that far apart

88 orangepeel notch

Yeah, my wife is from Cleveland originally.

Nice write up on the distributor by the way, that will help alot of guys.