5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

do i need new valve springs? and seal question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-28-2013, 02:56 PM
  #21  
9550
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
9550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
Default

this is what im talking about. standard looking iron gt40 spring area yes?
9550 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 07:13 PM
  #22  
barnett468
4th Gear Member
 
barnett468's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
Default

your spring area is stock and not modified. but i was so caught up in your springs i forgot to mention. you can not run any type of perf cam with these heads because your compression is too low. you need around 9.5:1. if your heads ate not p's you need to mill .025" off from stock and run thinner head gaskets. do it now that they are off, you will thank me later. am i gonna need some more beer for this round, i'm ready, lol.

Last edited by barnett468; 12-28-2013 at 07:19 PM.
barnett468 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 07:28 PM
  #23  
barnett468
4th Gear Member
 
barnett468's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
Default

Originally Posted by 9550
new springs are ordered comp cam 986-16 as recommended by comp cam. of course they want you to use their springs. whatever. i think i realize i dont actually have to use their springs, but in an effort to make everything easier and faster, i bought them.

to use these springs with my gt40 heads, theres some head machining required. theres a step around the stem base where the springs sit that will apparently need to be machined flat, and maybe the stem guide OD may need to be cut thinner, and different stem seals need to be gotten. i already bought replacements seal for what i had, may be no good and have to be returned. returning them isnt a huge deal, but its just a hassle.
wow, if they are single springs there should be no machining required. let your shop check it out.




Originally Posted by 9550
so, im thinking this all sounds like a pain in the ***, plus, i dont think i want to machine the heads just to make the comp springs work. i would rather get some other springs that will do the job.
look in the comp catalog they should have some. look for the proper inside diameter.




Originally Posted by 9550
am i overreacting and this is not a big deal or?
it's not a big deal but its bogus.




Originally Posted by 9550
seems that step is there to keep the single spring ford spring in place and prevent it from dancing around.
yes, on the early hi po heads they had a lip on the outside to trap the spring.




Originally Posted by 9550
if i machine the step away, am i unable to use ford springs later down the road if need be?
ok, i'm goin back to the bar, lol. you buy spring "cups" from summit by manley or other mfg.




Originally Posted by 9550
feel free to add any thoughts/comments. im kinda bummed out right now mainly because my schedule is blown i think. might take a page out of barnett's book and go get hammered.
tis the season to be H A M M E R E D, fa, la, la...

Last edited by barnett468; 12-28-2013 at 07:31 PM.
barnett468 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 07:46 PM
  #24  
barnett468
4th Gear Member
 
barnett468's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
Default

i'm guessing that you realize that the comp cam you are installing is smaller than the f303 and has a lower rpm operating range? it will have a bit more bottom end.
barnett468 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 08:43 PM
  #25  
9550
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
9550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
Default

thanks Barnett.
I'm actually hammered right now.

at the moment, I'm leaning toward buying a set of ford springs to do the job and return the comp springs. single springs, not dual like these comp cam springs.

I plan to call comp Monday morning and try and sort it all out though.

I'm worried that my machine shop guy is just a machine shop guy and isn't aware of the potential that the inner spring may pull the stem seal off the top of the guide.

so picture this, for these comp springs, let's say the outer spring clears the raised part on the head, and the inner spring rests on the top of the raised part. is that a bad idea?
my machine shop guy says it will be fine, but all the evidence I have found says it needs to be milled flat. that's why I'm worried.

I think if my machine shop guy is just a machine shop guy and I give home the ford springs, he can't screw anything up.
9550 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 08:49 PM
  #26  
9550
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
9550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
Default

Originally Posted by barnett468
i'm guessing that you realize that the comp cam you are installing is smaller than the f303 and has a lower rpm operating range? it will have a bit more bottom end.
yeah I realize. the f cam was put in with the supercharger. supercharger is gone. somebody here recommended this one.
9550 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 09:13 PM
  #27  
barnett468
4th Gear Member
 
barnett468's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
Default

hi,

don't worry about the outside of the spring. it need to be snug on the id with the raised platform and sit on top of the lower platform not on the outside of it. this is simple, if it had single springs then just measure the od of the raised platform on the retainer. it should be near the same as the platform on the head.

a machine shop guy cam screw up anything. spring set up is easy for those that know how but impossible for those that don't.

Again, as long as they end up close to what i suggested you are fine. you do not want or need closed pressure greater than 135. it will be hard on the valve train and beat your valves and valve seats to death.

if it is less than around 118 the valves might bounce as they close at high rpm. ohhh.

what did you not like about the 303 cam. the comp you listed is a good one but both need compression.

are ypou going to increase your compression as i suggested?

Last edited by barnett468; 12-28-2013 at 09:25 PM.
barnett468 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 09:25 PM
  #28  
9550
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
9550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
Default

Originally Posted by barnett468
hi,

don't wory about the outside of the spring. it need to be snug on the id with the raised platform and sit on top of the lower platform not on the pitside of it. this is simple, if it had single springs then just measire the od of the raised platform on the retainer. it should be near the same as the platform on the head.

a machine shop guy cam screw up anything. spring set up is easy for those that know how but impossible for those that don't.

Again, as llong as they end up close to what i suggested you are fine. you fo not want or need closed pressure greater than 135. it will be hard on the vakve train and beat your valves and valve seats to death.

what did you not like about the 303 cam. the comp you listed is a good one but both need compression.

are ypou going to increase your compression as i suggested?
so you're saying I dont necessarily have to machine the raised part flat? that's good news.I have no problem with shaving a little off the head surface to bump compression, but in not sure if I can find a thinner gasket. I'm using the felpro 1006. they have the loc wire for my grooved heads. I took a vote on whether I needed to use the loc wire or not. was like 5-1 that I needed to use it.
9550 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 09:43 PM
  #29  
9550
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
9550's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 501
Default

I still didn't buy a caliper. Will do it tomorrow and post some measurements.
9550 is offline  
Old 12-28-2013, 09:52 PM
  #30  
barnett468
4th Gear Member
 
barnett468's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
Default

Originally Posted by 9550
so you're saying I dont necessarily have to machine the raised part flat?
not with single springs, no way no how.



Originally Posted by 9550
I have no problem with shaving a little off the head surface to bump compression, but in not sure if I can find a thinner gasket. I'm using the felpro 1006. they have the loc wire for my grooved heads.
ok, i mentioned that if you shaved your heads your lock wire groove would not be deep enough so it will need to be re-emachined.

if milling the heads .025" from ORIG, removes the groove in the heads then either regroove them for the loc wire or just use the std gaskets but the thin ones i mentioned. i will get you the part number.



Originally Posted by 9550
I took a vote on whether I needed to use the loc wire or not. was like 5-1 that I needed to use it.
wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, but i would buy hi perf ones.

Last edited by barnett468; 12-28-2013 at 09:55 PM.
barnett468 is offline  


Quick Reply: do i need new valve springs? and seal question



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:19 PM.