5.0L (1979-1995) MustangTechnical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.
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OK here's the deal. Started the car went to the store (all is good) left the store and the car stopped running. (onlya10 minute trip or less) Car wouldn't start after that. Went back today and the car started ran for 10-15 minutes and same problem. (wouldn't start) Any ideas? I have changed plugs & fuel filter. Cranks over finejust won't start after driving it for awhile.
I THOUFGT FUEL PUMP BUT I CAN HEAR THE FUEL PUMP COME ON WHEN I TURN THE IGNITION ON.
HELP PLEASE!!! AS I'MINST. LOUIS WITH A MAJOR SNOW STORM!!!!!
THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP
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Check your battery connection? Sometimes those can get loose when hitting bumps and possibly shut off the car. Go to any advanced auto or Autozone and have your battery tested and your alternator. But I might be wrong because it does crank over. My friend also had this problem and he fixed it with two possible solutions. 1. he reset his computer and two he got a new starter.
Definitely sounds like an ignition issue. The TFI module was moved to the fender in 1994 to help with the heat soak problems from when it was mounted to the distributor. They are still susceptible to problems on the fender as well so start there.
Thanks for all the replies but it's still doing the same thing. Put a new fuel pump in. So it has spark & fuel. Checked battery connection. Starts but won't continue to run- Pulled codes said 121or 122 TPS LOW VOLTAGE Could the TPS cause this?
Ok so the car runs for about 10 min then shuts off and wont restart until it sets for bit?
TFI ( thick film ignition ) or other wise fords fancy name for ignition module ...
located on the passanger side fender under the air box. How ever these stopped being much of a problem in 94 with the sn95 body compared to the fox platforms that have the tfi mounted to the distributor. The reason for relocation was these modules are highly susceptible to heat , once they start going bad they get hot and cause severe popping and bucking along with stalling, once cooled off they run normal again. However when one of these goes bad , you generally get no spark at all until it cools.
If you are getting spark, I would check to see if your spark is a good blue/white spark indicating a strong hot spark, or is it a reddish/orange spark indicating weak spark. A failing coil when it gets hot will produce spark, but it will not be a strong enough spark to maintain ignition , or start. Once the coil cools it may start up for a period of time until it gets hot and the resistance becomes to great and it fails.
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