5overt

ok long story short I bought a 5Overt it had been sitting for 7 yrs according to sticker. It fired up and I drove it on my trailer. Seller told me it has a cam (unknown) 1200 bucks in oem parts to get it running. I noticed new water pump, new alternator, new gas tank, plugs and wires. it has long tube bbk headers h pipe and flows. NO 02's yet. smog pump was removed before I got it. but the charcoal cannister is still in it.

ok I have cleaned idle air control valve, chased some vacuum hoses and got it running ok with all new battery leads and terminals.

problem is when it starts it dies wont idle till I keep my foot in it for a few minutes obviosuly its running rich. I have ****ed with the timing till I am blue in the face. is there something I need to do to tune in the smog pump removal. also when I get it idling and i unhook the IAC nothing really changes. on or off I dont get any consistency out of the IAC. I have one that will be here in the morning. hope it fixes it. sorry it so long I just like to give as much background as possible. If you can answer any q's I am all ears?
I am no pro mechanic but if its man made I CAN FIX IT! with some help

dawson1112

Is the check engine light on? If so youll need to pull the codes to see what is going on.

Obviously the smog pump removal, and lack of 02s will set a dtc.

My first guess is its running rich because there is no 02 sensors to tell the computer what the air/fuel is.

It could be the MAF or ECT as well.
It sounds as if you got someones project that was never completed, now youll have to sort out whats been done and what needs done.

5overt

I cleaned the maf sensor and that made a big improvement. I have read about ect, I dont what or where that is. the dash is out at the paint shop, but i know the check engine is light is on. I dont know how to pull'em on these things

yes this is someone elses project but i got it cheap!

dawson1112

If the dash is out , youll need a test light or multimeter to see what codes are set.
If you scoll down a little on this page there is a pic of how to use a test light or Multi meter.
http://www.dfwmustangs.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7908



The ECT is the engine coolant temp sensor, it is responsible for sending coolant temp data to the ecm, The ecm uses this data to monitor temps of the engine so it can adjust fuel, timing , (and idle speed when cold ) Because colder engines need more fuel , if the ect is sending false data it may be telling the computer that the engine is -40 degrees . This would cause it to dump way more fuel than necessary , it can cause poor idle and a very rich smelling exhause.

The ECT is located at the front passanger side of on either the lower intake , or the heater tube . Which is where mine is at.


You can test the ect using a multi meter and reading the ohms, or reading the output voltage. The ecm feeds the ect a 5v reference and looks at what voltage is returned. If there is no resistance the ecm will see the 5v signal from the ect and assume that the engine is -40 degrees, that would be bad because if the actual ambient air temp is 50 degrees it cuts Idle air like a choke would and increases fuel .

To test ECT http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=28

5overt

ok bad news IAC was not the problem

5overt

how do I test the ect, and will it cause it to start up and die? over and over?
once I manage to get the car warm it idles pretty well and sounds good it just runs rich, I just cant start it once and let the thing idle. I got jack with it to keeep it going for a few minutes.

5overt

the other day i spread the ten pins and it was idling well, then started idling I tapped them together just now and it sarted idling again. I removed the recall adapters is there a better full proof way to fix this situation?

5overt

hey I was wrong my car still sux!

dawson1112

grab that salt and pepper shaker harness and jiggle it around while its idling, see if it gets better ( or worse ) if so you still have a bad connection there