aode08

No that will not work. Your compression will be very low,YOUR GOING TO HAVE A LOT OF AIR VELOCITY/TURBULENCE INITIALLY=A DOG OFF LINE,STALLING,NON OPTIMAL CURVING.

Don't worry bout your pistons, it just clicked in my head, whoever did your 306 just used regular .030 302 stock type pistons or they would of put aftermarket heads on and also the whole engine would have to be rebalanced, but in either case, read below. I spent a few hours running the air flow data, and studying some tuning data I have here at home on several setups ON A 306, THIS WAS THE BEST ONE.

This is why the folks that just bolt AFR'S on, don't experience the OPTIMAL POWER CURVE or numbers they thought.

THIS IS OPTIMAL,HAVE YOUR CAKE AND EAT IT TOO
AFR 185 54cc version,angle milled .064 inch TO BRING TO 50CC.These heads have a 3/4 deck so don't worry about nothing.

TFS R INTAKE, XE282 CAM ,PRO METER MAF, 24LB INJECTORS, LONG TUBES,-add a x pipe or H WITH mufflers/or resonators to DECREASE EXHAUST TURBULENCE, and PROVIDE OPTIMAL POWER BAND

The 5.0 computer will not tolerate turbulance, tuned or not(this little secret is NOTknown to most 5.0 owners), that lump and chop cost,and can cost a lot of power, sad that even experienced tuners wont tell you or dont knowhint.,

WHILE THE MAF IS READING ONE THING, THE O2 SENSORS ARE FLUCTUATING SO BAD, THEY SEND THE ECM ANOTHER THING, THEN THE ECM KEEPS TRYING TO BALANCE IT ALL.ALL THE TUNER CAN DO IS LIE TO THE COMPUTER, TO CALM THINGS DOWN, but the tune did not
solve the mismatch issue, just hide it.
A tune will always make more power on a matched combo.

A good machinist will notch the bolt holes and mill the intake side of head. You do not have to mill the intake manifold or change valve pushrod length. DO NOT FLAT MILL THESE HEADS EVER

This will pull 2228, rpm - 6k redline, that's what you want., thats all your city power, and racing power, the torque and horsepower will stick together and stay there(you do not want horsepower or torque falling off. Your bottom end be VERY reliable..

Then the cheap stuff-under drive pulleys,electric fan,180* thermostat,aluminum drive shaft,fender well mount cold air intake,5w20 lightweight oil,upgraded ignition plug wires, upgraded coil pack,high energy plugs.NO TUNE NEEDED.93 octane

Thank my science later.

aode08

Down here, where I live, and race,our master engine builders,fabrication experts,master mechanics, and drivers are in one building with 3 different dyno machines same guys over 16 years.

I know a guy that has a dart aluminum 302 block,bored it to just a 306 like you, however had afr225's milled, aftermarket lightweight engine rotating assembly, ran pop up pistons for extremely high compression,carb setup, large cam, and RACE FUEL, he pushes the 306 to 7,200 rpms and it dropped a mouth watering, 496HP,443 Lb of torque.He's still dong that, same game, same engine, same track.

The car is gutted, with 3:73's,solid rear(welded gears) and runs high 9 seconds in the quarter, constant.
Hell, my 347 has been around since 2003,I didn't join here till 2005, its still starts up and makes the same power as when brand new today 2014,11 years later.

Ballistics

AODE Thanks for all your time and effort.

Here's a pic of the motor:



I already have H pipe exhaust.

Is getting the heads angle milled expensive? Also, I plan on building the bottom end next year. Will I be able to keep all the top end upgrades?

Ballistics

I'm also only finding the 58cc version of the AFR 185s. I'm not seeing a 54cc version.

aode08

No,its one of the cheapest machine shop work to do, as long as you take out your own valves etc from the head, so the machine shop don't have to.
It usually a same day service or 1 day service.If you buy the heads new, maybe afr can do that for you?maybe not.

The motor is nice,don't worry yourself about the bottom end,keep your oil changed and clean,(two drain plugs),just do the HCI.The 306 has already been rebuilt.

aode08

maybe it the 58cc, but the mill specs are still correct, get the 50 version, the 70 version is too much room, even a mill coudn't fix them, its meant for extreme boost,very low compression, (70 version)
WHAT NICE, LOOKS LIKE YOU GOT ALL THE CHEAP STUFF ALREADY, except a few things in the cheap stuff list,like under drive pulleys,aluminum driveshaft 5w20 oil etc.

Ballistics

Thanks GT

Ballistics

Making a link list. I'm off tomorrow so I'll be able to order all of the parts I need.
I'd like to be able to get stuff used or second hand but it looks like I gotta go new if I want to get the ball rolling now.

Cheap stuff first.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-pu...tV1&adtype=pla

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frp-79...987&adtype=pla

http://www.americanmuscle.com/180-thermostat-7995.html

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishim...iator-fan.html

Ballistics

For the TFS intake, I'm reading that the cheaper Box R is just as good, as the more expensive R intake. What's your take on that?

Ballistics

Will the 282 cam need to be custom ground?