mjr46

torque on uppers using arp lube iirc is 75 and lowers is 80 if oil is used iirc you are suppose to up torque 5 ft lbs......arps website will have the specific values for the bolt part number you bought.

9550

well, the bolts were bought many years ago, but i may still have the box somewhere. i checked the arp site and they only have 1 kit for the 302 and instructions say 70lb and they mention motor oil will affect results. so looks like 75lb is where i want to be if i add the 5lb as you suggested. they dont specify different torques for upper and lower however.
thanks again
http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/154-3601.pdf

bluebeastsrt

teflon paste on lowers is a must. I got the 75 ft. Pds.from ARP. They told me top & bottom had same specs.

9550

are you saying that regular thread sealant is not good enough?

also, in general, so now i torqued the head down, then a day later i went and torqued another 5 pounds or so. is the thread sealant ruined now, im guessing yes.
damn
if the thread sealant is ruined and/or if this teflon stuff is a must, do i need to start over? if so, can i re-use the head gasket?
this is turning into a minor nightmare
thanks again

bluebeastsrt

What type of thread sealant did you use? If the sealant you used is approved for head bolts your fine. Loc-tite makes several products but if you using 5 dollar thread sealant your probably screwed. Teflon paste is the best to use because the lower bolts go into the water jackets and if you don't get a good seal you'll be leaking coolant all the time. If you have to start over the head gasket will be ok to reuse. If your not using a shop manual or at the very least a Haynes rebuild manual. It sounds like some think like that would come in handy for you.

9550

hi
used permatex, any good?
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail
says it can be adjusted up to 4 hours after applying, so i adjusted it more than 24 hours after, did i ruin it?

bluebeastsrt

That permatex will work fine and if you retighten after you run the motor you'd be moving the sealant. So no I don't think you hurt anything, sounds like your in good shape.

uedlose

If they leak put a can of stop leak in it run it for a day or so and drain the system back out. then just refill the system with coolant. I done it many times with F/I engines due to not wanting to have the sealer mess up my torque values when torquing the head bolts and running MLS gaskets when customers would not up for studs. The engine in our turbo car when S/C started leaking at the bolts years ago so I did this and it was fine sealed right up. Now it is a R-block I dont have them issues anymore. But when ever I do a F/I engine with MLS gaskets I always put a can of stop leak in it run a day or 2 and drain it back out. Been doing it for years.