dawson1112

Almost any time we change the incoming air volume or velocity a base idle reset is needed.

yurizx6r

Ok. I'll check the headlight switch, check the tps voltage, and reset the base idle tonight. I'll let you know what my results are. Thank you very much for your help Dawson.

aode08

Blow a cigar through your brake boost line, look for any smoke.-Vacuum leaks,always a must.

Increase your timing and turn the idle up. Make sure you have a good decent idle in drive.

The click pop whatever is the white thing on your clutch pedal?quadrant?steeda or aftermarket is the best, its just held in by two clips and dirt cheap.

The charging issue will improve when the timing and idle is increased.

yurizx6r

Ok Tonight I did not have an opportunity to pull off the light switch at all. He didn't have a spare part either. HOWEVER, according to my buddy, his theory is that it's the alternator. I have a stock alternator, and he thinks it's not giving me enough power. At first I thought he was crazy, but after tonight I'm not so sure. Here is what happened...

I drove to my buddies house that is 20 miles away. I had the radio on and since it was the day time I had the headlights off and NO ISSUES WHAT SO EVER. I was at his house until sunset. Fearing the fact that my car has been stalling with the headlights I only used the parking lights (aka only pushed the headlight button half way in). I drove it like this for 10 miles (with radio off) and no issues at all. Voltage was perfect. Eventually, I saw a cop so I turned the lights on. I drove it for 9 miles with the radio off and the headlights on and no issues at all. Voltage was still perfect. During the last 2 miles (at a stop light) I though "what the hell is going on" so I turned the radio on. I noticed that the louder I turned the music up the lower the voltage got. I started to drive when I started to hear this strange noise coming from the engine (radio still on). When I turned left I saw the voltage meter bounce, put my foot on the clutch and brake, and she stalled. I turned it back on, turned the radio off and the noise went away. Then I put the radio back on and the noise came back. At that point I had reached my house, so I put it in neutral and popped the hood...couldn't replicate the noise at all. I did notice however that whenever I push the brake pedal in (headlights on) the voltage does go down a little. I then put the radio back on and repeatedly pushed the brake pedal when the voltage meter (and the RPMs) would go up and down as I pushed................. WHAT THE HELL!!!!???? .................could this actually be the alternator!?

yurizx6r

I would think that if it were the alternator, why the hell would it stall!? Why wouldn't it just drain the battery?

robotnix

yuri,
here is my todo list for my idle issue which happens at random times.
- changed air filter
- cleaned maf sensor
- cleaned iac
- tested tps = 0.95

todo
- test battery, starter, alternator (ideally change alternator to 3G) for future sound system
- change EGR valve
- change o2 sensor
- change spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap and rotor
- change tfi module
- change pcv
my amateur mechanic life started few days ago when I bought this toy

any other suggestions?

if after this it still has idle issues I'll probably go to ford dealership it would probably have been cheaper to go there right away but where is the satisfaction?

robotnix

correction, before I do any of the todo list I have bought a code reader from amazon for 30$ or so I will be doing that first once I get it.

yurizx6r

That's a pretty good list to start at. Even if that's not your issue, you should be doing that when you first get a used car anyways. I would also put some lucus fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank and some sea foam through a vacuum line (brake booster vacuum works fine). Just remember to add the seafoam while a buddy has his foot on the gas (1,800-2,500 rpm's is good) and you add it SLOWLY. If you add it too fast you can and will hydrolock your motor. Be careful with this, because the vacuum will suck it out faster than you think. Just use half a can to start out with.

robotnix

just q noob question,
I've been watching videos about seaform and people pooring them in their engine and then saying "my engine is now clean" like how do you know it's clean? has anyone done this actually and then open the engine and look into it to see if it really works or we're just assuming the engine is all clean

yurizx6r

If you put it in the oil, only run it in there for a 50-100 miles. Then change your oil. If you put it through a vacuum line, you will see all the smoke that comes out of your exhaust. Most of that smoke is built up carbon. If your motor is clean, it will only smoke a little, but not much. That very small amount of smoke is the seafoam, but if it's a lot of smoke, there's your carbon going bye bye. It's awesome. Like I said, I cannot stress enough PUT IT IN SLOWLY!!!! I usually put my thumb over most of the lid and slowly tip it into the vacuum line. If you put the vacuum line inside the can it will suck it up too fast. This is where you need to be careful. Also, Seafoam is perfectly safe. I've used it on 100's of cars. It works like a champ and have never had an issue.